GSD1000L02 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

The wheel kit came with axel's to support them. They snapped in place in seconds. No instructions provided, but installing method was obvious.

Put on a new cap.

over time the upper rack axles broke so the rack would just come out of the rollers. I ordered the parts from here and had to youtube how to get the stops out so I didn't have to unscrew the metal guides out making an easy job into a hard one. all you have to do is with a flat head screw driver is slightly bend the plastic end part of the stop which is in the metal guide that stops the wheels from coming out of the guides. once you bend out the plastic end you then turn the stop to get it out of the metal guides. if you youtube it its very easy. just be easy when you bend the plastic piece because I can see it breaking. I didn't break mine so the job was very very easy and took all of about 5 to 10 minutes to complete the entire job. I love this site it had real life info to help out when you need to do a job and trouble shoot your appliance.

Removed rack slide end caps. They broke off because of brittleness. Removed rack, then used pliers and/or flat blade screwdriver to remove 4 rollers and axle assemblies. Replaced with new rollers/axles. Return upper rack into slides and installed new end caps. New caps slightly different than old but easily clip into place Upper rack works lile new!

Our older GE dishwasher was leaking water on the floor while running. After inspecting it while running I was able to determine that the water was coming from the seal around the motors shaft where it entered the pump. I then looked up the washers model number and ordered the impeller shaft seal kit. To my suprise the kit arrived the very next day! After disconnecting the power and water supplies from the dishwasher , I then removed it from the cabinet base and turned it over to gain easy access to the bottom. Using nothing more than a nut driver, adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers I was able to loosen the two compression clamps and two hose clamps that hold the pump to the bottom of the washers tub. I then removed the entire pump and took it to my work bench for the rest of the repair. Removing the plastic impeller strainer was the toughest part.. Lacking the proper spanner wrench, I had no tool that would lock onto the raised tabs to turn it loose with. I was able to position the tabs in the jaws of my workbench vise and giving the entire pump a little twist, It broke free and I was then able to unscrew the rest of the way it by hand.. The old dried up detergent made for a good adhesive, and after removal I cleaned the area completely so the new strainer would thread in easy. I installed the new parts in the kit as per the supplied instructions and re-installed the pump housing back on the dishwasher and put it all back in place. After running it several times not a drip was to be seen, and I was very pleased with the whole process. With the shipping it cost me just $25.00, and it saved me a expensive service call or maybe even the cost of buying a new machine. I would say that overall it was a easy repair but lacking the right tools, you may have some trouble removing the pumps plastic strainer screen as I did. I would highly recommend PartsSelect to anyone, and the entire experience was a good one for me.

Pulled washer out about 6" without disconnecting any hoses. This way i could use both hands from the left side & front after i took the kick plate off.

Ordered the new motor/pump here at parts select and with the easy directions I replaced in no time flat. Saved me $300.00 for a replacement.

Each replacement wheel came in two parts: the wheel itself and the clip which had to be pushed through the center hole in the wheel in order to attach each wheel to the carriage that holds dishes. I had difficulty assembling the clips and wheels until I ran the clips under hot water to soften them. This made it possible to assemble the wheels and attach them to the dish carriage. I would have preferred the wheels to have come assembled, particularly given the price of each one.

easiest way i found to do it was pull dishwashers out from under the cabnet... laided a pillow down in front of the door and turned it on the front side... the part was very easy to get to at this angle....could have done it in less then 5 minutes but took my time to double check everything to be safe....took a total of about 10 minutes..... very happy now no longer need to vacume out the old dish water left at the bottom of the dishwasher...... i think most anyone could do this very easy....

I first made a bad assumption that the leaking dishwasher was from the gasket. I replaced the gasket and it still leaked. To find the leak, I took the body off of the dishwasher and ran it to find the leak. It was from the solonoid connection. I took photos of the leaking motor unit and very easily replaced the new motor unit by matching the placement from the photos. The hardest part is tipping the dishwasher on its side and mopping up the water.
It was very easy. All you need is a nut driver and a Phillips screwdriver. Even an over-domesticated, non- tool user can do it.

Turned off electical and water - took fillter screen out of inside, unscrewed cap took out valve and replaced it

This seems to be a simple repair, but the push on nut is difficult to remove. Ended up damaging the case, so I am going to buy another dishwasher. If you plan to repair, make sure you pull the unit out to have plenty of room to work with.

Based on what I read from other people and partselect, it was fairly easy to ascertain what was wrong. I removed the solonoid valve by removing the two screws that held in place. Had to clean up the solonoid valve rod due to water leaking into it by running it on a wire brush. Pulled out the stop nut and old seal and replaced it with the new seal. Could not get the new stop nut on but it does not seem to move so let it go. Have to say that reading all the comments certainly helped me with the repair. Additionally, ordered parts by email at 10:30 in the morning and receiving them the very next day. Could not believe they were delivered so quickly.

Removed screws on the drain pump filter screens at the back of the dishwasher, unscrewed the check valve, screwed in the replacement unit, and re-affixed the filter screens.

I lived with the drain problem for 6 months and reviewed on line trouble shooting which all pointed me to a pump or solenoid valve problem. I pulled the unit and disassembled everything before noticing that the rubber washer/stopper at the top of the check valve had erroded away and was not preventing water from pumping back into the cabinet when the drain pump kicked on. Always check the condition of this check valve first if you dishwasher is not draining properly. It was so easy once I found the bad part.