GSD1900J20WH General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

after I let the unit rest on its side to expose the bottom part, I took a picture just in case for reference; I marked all electrical connections, so it would go to right place into the new unit; removed the old pump unit by loosening the rubber clamps, for the inlet and outlet; detached the support sling for the motor unit; installed the new pump unit; it fits like a charm and it was wonderful; I had some bad experiences of replacement parts from other suppliers, on many things that I fix , that won't really fit like the original, but this one fits like a charm; I made my first test run with just water with out the detergent and after one cycle I used the necessary dishwasher detergent and it works just like brand new; Thank you, PartSelect, I will be ordering any of my part needs from you. - G.V.

Just like the video and replaced it

Received the new timer in the late afternoon. Waited until the next morning to work on it. The biggest problem was taking the door apart. the time slid into a bracket and was held on with 2 screws and it's plug. This went like a piece of cake. The next problem was getting the door back on and together by myself.....but I managed it. The whole job took less than one hour.....and the dishes from the night before were given the test run!

This was one of those wonderful repairs where anything went right.
The part arrived overnight as ordered and even though I was abit leary of it fitting, since it was described as a replacement/new design, it fit perfectly! As mentioned in another post here, draining the water out of the unit so I could tip it over to do the replacement was the hardest part!
I'm sure I saved over $100 doing it myself. Thanks PartSelect!

repair kit was complete and directions were easy to follow. my model of dishwasher disnt even require any of the adapters. really only required removing a couple of clamps and replacing everything as a single unit

I disconnected the power shut off water supply. I then removed the drain hoses and water supply to the old pump. I removed the ground wire and the mounting rod to the old pump. Once removed, I followed the easy illustrated diagrams and instructions that came with the replacement pump.
I mounted the new pump using the supplied hardware and reconnected suply line and drain hose. I turned water supply and power back on. Ran a test cycle before reinserting under countertop. Amazingly quiet and no leaks. Repair a success.

I would use this service again if needed for additonal home appliances.

Thank you
Mr. Buddy King

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

Pulled washer out. Found water inlet valve in lower left. Shut off power and water. Replaced valve with new.

Your video doesn't include disconnecting water supply disconnecting electrical and disconnecting drain hose but after all that the repair to change the solenoid was a easy task but the problem was not solved so I TRIED . thanks Robert

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

I went to your site and check all the diagrams and then read the postings from others. I turned off the electrical breaker then took off the lower cover of the dishwasher. After disconnecting the water and electricial connections I was able to remove the 2 screws holding the unit in place and it came right out. I turned the unit over and was able to just remove the old part and put the new part in place. The whole job took me about one hour but I had never worked on a dishwasher before. Your site made the repair very easy to do on my own.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

I replaced the drain solenoid which was about $35 dollars. It consisted of a couple of springs, a hanging bracket, a plastic part and couple of screws to fasten the bracket and the solenoid of course. My dishwasher now drains the water. Much easier fix than i thought it would be.

I could not pull it out to get the new one in so I used a dremmel. Then pressed in the new one.

Thanks for your help.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.