GDF520PGJ0CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Not having to screw with the hose clamps is the advantage here!
Disconnect electric connection at motor.
Slightly bend tabs that hold the pump to motor, twist motor from volute.
Do this on old pump first to get a feel for how easy the tabs can be broken
Do same on the replacement pump, put new motor on, watch alignment
can be a bit tricky.

In did the drain screen, undid two nuts on top, removed panel, undid plastic ring, undid two screws with but driver, pulled sensor up, dried up any water at bottom, installed new sensor and follow steps in reverse. It worked!!!

took off 2 sheet metal on the bottom, lowered the dish washer, pulled it out enought to unscrew 2 screws, unplugged the old part plugged in the new, put it back together.
Works like a champ.

youtube youtube youtube!
No videos for the exact unit, but I got the gist from one video which included the trick of holding the door hinge springs in place with allen wrenches, while the door slid up and away for access to the gasket. I also had to pull the unit out from under the counter by about a foot. No need to disconnect anything. Good luck.

It took longer to uninstall and reinstall the dishwasher than it did to change out the part

Took off the door and separated the two door pieces. Unscrewed the old dispenser and replaced it with the new one.

1. Take a picture of the old rack in the dishwasher! Just in case!
2. Remove rail channel end caps and place them on the tabletop on the correct side to make sure you put them back on the correct side.
3. Remove old rack.
4. Carefully snap off the water sprinkling unit. (carefully push down tabs so they don't break).
5. Using your picture as a reference (!) snap the water sprinkling unit on the new rack (it's easy).
6. Put the new rack back onto the rail channel and replace the end caps.

Done! Very easy installation ! Rack was not nearly as expensive as I anticipated and was delivered quickly. Note: You get the rack only. All ot the other parts are from the old unit.

The repair instructions were great and the repair went well. The repair took less than an hour.

Thank you
Gary

YouTube search indicated the common problem was the Dishwasher Electronic Control Board, part # WD21X10537. YouTube was wrong. $83.76 mistake. (not Parts Selects fault)
I continued my search and stumbled on JustAnswers.com for $38.00.
They diagnosed the issue by me describing the lights that were blinking and for how long, and quickly told me the door latch is not registering. However, said it is rarely the door latch, but rather the Electronic Control Board, part # PS12726419 for $105.90. What the heck, I'll bite.
Bought both parts at Parts Select, quick shipping, solid packaging and good return policy (learned from previous experience). I did not return the 1st part, figured it probably wasn't long for this world anyway.
Dishwasher is running fine again. The combination of JustAnswers.com and PartSelect.com is far better than an extended warranty. Extended warranties last 3 yrs in most cases and cost as much as I spent. Someone with smaller hands could have done both repairs much quicker.

Simple answer- do not try to do this. GE makes you replace the entire door to replace this $3 part or call them and pay $100s to fix it. We decided to replace the entire dishwasher after we went through disassembly (there are no instructions on this) only to find out we could not fix without a brand new door.

I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light.
So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle.
When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well.
Sincerely,
Scott

I replaced the flood switch following instructions shown in readily available YouTube videos. In short, you remove the coarse and fine filters, then take out the bracket holding in the flood switch and finally the switch itself. After replacing the switch, the dishwasher works normally again.

Simply unscrewed the old damaged arm and screwed the new one on, took less than a minute

The repair is easy for most if you have basic skills.

1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)

2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.

3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.

4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)

5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.

6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)

7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.

8. Carefully slide out the unit.

9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.

10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.

11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.

12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.

13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.

14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.

Good luck! You can do this :)

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher