GDF540HGD4BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Unplugged power.
Shut off water supply.
Remove the kick panel.
Unscrewed dishwasher from under cabinet and side screws. lower feet to reduce tension.
As you slide the dishwasher out, be sure all lines (Drain, water supply, electric are free to move with dishwasher.
I was able to hold the dishwasher at an angle to easily get to the valve. After removing the the valve, i screwed the new valve back into place. I removed the Line between the valve and Dishwasher. Putting the line on the new valve. I removed the water supply line from the old valve and installed it on the new valve.
Placed the dishwater back in place and screed it back in. I ran the cycles. everything works!
I replace the kickpaner a couple of hours later. Check to make sure there were now leaks.

The replacement of the parts was simple enough, but the board appears to need a jumper which was not in the original board.

The start button works, but beeps three times and doesn’t start the washer

*Unplug the dishwasher. My drain hose was long enough so no need to disconnect.
Access the motherboard and found a solid green light. This indicates the motherboard is not communicating with the user interface.

Door removal:
- removed kick plate
-unplugged door wire assembly and wire harness clip
-Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pull dishwasher out about 6 inches
-Detached pulley rope assembly from door hinge
-Open door about 4 inches and pull up and towards me.
-Lay the door down, removed vent cap and four T20 screws from the side bottom, remove two 1/4 inch bolt from each hinge(the hinges have four bolts, but only to need to be removed)
-push up on the plastic inner door from outer door and set aside.
-Unscrew four 1/4 inch bolts holding user interface and unplug wire assembly. (The two middle screws are longer than the two outer screws)
-be sure to ground yourself before touching the new user interface board
-read the instructions for the new interface board clip positions(mine was already position correctly)
-Assemble the door and be sure to connect the wire assembly and harness clip.

There was no repair -- it was a simple snap-in replacement of lower spray arm assembly. The shaft holding the lower spray arm in place is plastic so of course it broke when a utensil blocked the arm from spinning.

I appreciate the Parts Select company for enabling me to purchase a replacement part though that allows me to keep my old dishwasher working.

Very straight forward. After removing the power source the dishwasher was pulled forward enough to access the the door hinge springs. Then the door could be removed and the inner skin separated to access the the dispenser mounting screws.

First went to U Tube to view installation instructions and location of part. It was fairly easy to replace since I had installed the unit. I was able to move the unit out enough without disconnecting any line since there was enough slack in all three connections, only shut the power off. I did use the new parts even though the older ones were not broken. The nylon pulley wheel had built up with lint causing the cable to come off.

The main board is located under the washer in metal box accessed by removal of front plate at bottom. Removal of 2 screws on front of metal box allows board to drop down. However, very cumbersome to work on your back on floor in small space. I took the easy way and slid the washer out of cabinet, then turned washer ( it's light weight) on its back to access & remove old board and easily replace with new one. Also one of the connector plugs had to be replaced wired into the power connection made me very glad I was not working on my back ! Then simply turn washer upright and slide back into its cubby hole under counter.

Removed two latch screws and one electrical connection, Removed
two screws that hold D/W to countertop, pulled D/W out enough to remove the old latch, install new latch, push D/W back into place, rescrew to counter top and rescrew the two latch screws. This problem happened since new, had repairmen twice and they did nothing but move the dishwasher stating it needed alignment, never mentioned this easy repair....

Looked up the replacement part on YouTube, watched a video and followed the instructions. Part ordered was the correct part and the video showed how to access for replacing. Watched a different video for hooking up the disconnected springs that allow the door to lower and close smoothly. Whole process for repairs was less than 30 minutes.

Replaced latch

Shut Power off at Circuit Breaker
1. Remove Kick Plate & Insulation
2. Unplug electrical connection from door to unit
2. Remove 2 screws with nut driver to release panel above electrical connection box
3. Pull panel down and out to expose board
4. Disconnect 3 plugged wire leads
5. replace old board with the new in the tray
6. Plug connectors in
7. Put unit back together

Followed video instructions step by step.
I was fortunate i had enough slack in water, electric and discharge lines to avoid disconnecting.

Two wrinkles
1. wire clips on my door had to be pulled/pried loose from door and there were two not one

2. could not slide dishwasher out after lowering adjusters and figured out it was the mounting tabs bumpimng the granite countertop, thus the use of putty knives to slide the dishwasher out.

Removed the top two screws that hold the dishwasher to the cabinet , remove the two screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel. Screw the levelers all of the way up and pull out the dishwasher about 6 to 8 inch. Hook the new cabe on the spring and pull around pulley and attach it to the door bracket. I replaced both cables. Reverse to complete.

Popped old bracket off with screwdriver, with a then easy installation of the new part.

Had to remove the rubber gasket on the new spray arm to install the device, as it was hard to push into the above slot that fits the arm..