ADT521PGJ2WS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

It took longer to uninstall and reinstall the dishwasher than it did to change out the part

A quick twist of the locking nut

Very straight forward. After removing the power source the dishwasher was pulled forward enough to access the the door hinge springs. Then the door could be removed and the inner skin separated to access the the dispenser mounting screws.

Removed the top two screws that hold the dishwasher to the cabinet , remove the two screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel. Screw the levelers all of the way up and pull out the dishwasher about 6 to 8 inch. Hook the new cabe on the spring and pull around pulley and attach it to the door bracket. I replaced both cables. Reverse to complete.

Followed video instructions step by step.
I was fortunate i had enough slack in water, electric and discharge lines to avoid disconnecting.

Two wrinkles
1. wire clips on my door had to be pulled/pried loose from door and there were two not one

2. could not slide dishwasher out after lowering adjusters and figured out it was the mounting tabs bumpimng the granite countertop, thus the use of putty knives to slide the dishwasher out.

The pump went out after a few months of very loud noise during the drain cycle and then one day no drain or noise. A bit of research shows that this pump goes out frequently on this model so I ordered a new pump after inspecting the old pump for a clog or snag on the rotors.

The Install:
After removing the dishwasher from it's installed location and turning it on it's side (unplug water and electric of course), I was able to remove the pump from the two lines that connected it to the dishwasher and the drain line. I also had to unplug the pump from an electric connection to the dishwasher. Swapping out the new pump was the same but in reverse. Not a hard install, only simple tools required.

One note, my electric connection to the dish washer was different on this model pump since they changed the original part but there is an adapter included with this part so make sure it is in the box and fits before beginning.

Open box...remove old rack from dishwasher...roll in NEW rack. Done!!!

The Mid Spray Arm Assembly was not spinning due to a dish that was in placed the dishwasher that was too high and hitting the arm. When it spun until it broke the center shaft. Replacement was easy. After removing power I pulled the upper tray out and removed the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly by unsnapping it from the tray. I twisted off the broken spindle of the damaged arm assembly from the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly and inserted the new arm and gently pushed it until it snapped into the Mid Tiered Assembly. Reinstalled the assembled parts by snapping into the tray making sure it was centered.

Followed troubleshooting procedure to determine that defective Flood Switch caused the problem and not the Heating Element. Replaced only the Flood Switch. I also replaced a deteriorated door gasket.

De-installed dishwasher from cabinet, removed door, and tipped unit over with back of tub resting on floor.

I followed the document referenced here for the troubleshooting and repair procedures: GE Appliances Technical Service Guide, 2012 GE Dishwasher, 31-9226.pdf available on web.

Watched YouTube video on how to diagnose problems. Once part was identified ordered from Partselect.com and replaced the user interface circuit board. Dishwasher is now working.

Super easy repair, just removed the old latch and replaced it with the new one.

Upper rack I had to reuse the old power was assembly but it just snaps into place. Lower rack literally just place on roller track and it was done. No tools required. Extremely satisfied with my purchase. 10/10 recommend!!

The old gasket pulled right out with no tools needed,
The new gasket went in the same way.

Results:
It did help on one side, but the bottom gasket also needs to be replaced it has a couple of tears one on each end.

Next Steps:
When the bottom gasket gets here I will replace that and it should be as good as new.

Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.

Disconnect power breaker. Remove the internal dishwasher plastic rack trays. Remove kick plate and kick plate insulation. Disconnected electrical connector plug from power board. Remove junction box cover and disconnected electrical wires (hardwired model - not typical electric plug model). Pull dishwasher out about 6"-8". Disconnect user interface cable from power board. Remove door. Follow electrical trouble shooting to determine that power board was getting power to the user interface board but lights still non-operational (including START button). Remove internal door panel to get to interface board and replace it with a new one. I decided to replace the power control board with a new one as well because I had ordered it prior to determining that it was the user interface board (module) that was bad. Reversed the installation, reconnected everything. Turned the power. Put the plastic trays back in. Tested the unit (empty and loaded) and, it worked.