GDF510PGJ2BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.

Replaced bad roller carrier with a new one.

I fixed this issue by replacing the Dishwasher Tub Gasket (PS11774412) and the gasket on the bottom of the door (PS11700870). Replacing the tub gasket is very easy and straight forward. You just pull it off and put the new one on. The door gasket was much more complicated. See the steps required for replacement below:

The * indicates the part number in the diagram I am referencing

1. Remove the Toe Kick Assembly (*759)
2. Remove screws holding dishwasher to counter and pull the dishwasher out
3. With door shut, disengage the springs on both sides from the arm hinge assemblies *800 (I did this by taking the rope off the pulley hinge *734)
4. Disconnect the wire going from the dishwasher body to the door (there are two or three supports for the wire that need to be removed for it to come free)
5. Open the door about 15 degrees and pull the door upward (only one angle will work for removing the door)
6. Place the door on its front on the ground
7. Remove the two screws (*745) that hold one of the arm hinge assemblies to the door and pull the hinge away from the door (you don't need to pull it all of the way out)
8. Pull the old gasket out to the side and install the new gasket

Unscrewed brackets on top of dishwasher from underside of counter. Removed dress plate at bottom of dishwasher. Pulled dishwasher out of opening to access door hinge. Disconnected pulley cable/rope from each side door hinge. Let go slowly.
There is a 1/4 bolt holding the door tight to the hinge. With door closed (still) the screw is on bottom of bottom edge. Use wrench to loosen and remove.
Once both bolts are out, open door. Pull door away from dishwasher just enough (1-3 inches) to slide out old gasket. Prior to removing take note of existing gasket orientation and installation. Slide old gasket out one side and slide new gasket in.
Push in door tight to hinges,close door, use wrench to put bolts back in. Reattach pulley cable/rope to each side. Push back into opening. Reattach to counter. Put dress plate on bottom back.
Return dishwasher to regular use.

There was no repair -- it was a simple snap-in replacement of lower spray arm assembly. The shaft holding the lower spray arm in place is plastic so of course it broke when a utensil blocked the arm from spinning.

I appreciate the Parts Select company for enabling me to purchase a replacement part though that allows me to keep my old dishwasher working.

Removed old spray arm. Installed new one. New model spray arm doesn’t need metal heat shields.

Turn off water supply, turn of power to dishwasher, remove mounting screws, slide dishwasher out of opening, place a pan under water supply valve, remove water line, remove screws holding the valve in place, disconnect electrical connector. Reverse process to install new valve.

damage to gasket (had a slit in the area of the utensii baskets.
causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...

As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of
"Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.

Repair went fine, getting the right pump was the problem. I started with my local appliance parts house, they ordered part came in 3 days. Upon picking it up I noticed that the pump was shaped slightly different and the electrical hook up was totally different. Asking the parts guy what happened he said they must have sent the wrong pump. Returned it for credit and ordered it again. Four days later the same exact thing occurs. Parts guy credits my account and says better go directly to GE. Wait 10 days for GE, for this part and once again same odd looking pump with wrong electrical plug. My son who is a welder by trade asks me if there is a packet of parts in carton and yes there is. He says that perhaps there is a converter for the electrical. That was the solution no one told us that pump was universal and needed the adapter. Not even the 2 different tecks at first house. Perhaps that should be stated in the part would have saved us tons of time. Thanks D

Thanks to this site for saving me about 150.00.This is my third repair with parts from your company. Thank you.

I removed the old gasket and installed the new one in the same position as the one I removed. I had to feel with my fingers for the ridge to insert the gasket so that it would hold. I must admit that I was skeptical that it would work (the old one didn't even seem very damaged). I ran a cycle and there was no more leaking. We've been using the dishwasher ever since with no issues of leakage.

Very satisfied customer.

Online instructions said to remove door. Found no need to. Only need to release one hinge by sliding door upward after removing 2 screws at bottom edge of door which releases both hinges. With door lifted just pry out old seal (it will be stuck so use a strong screwdriver). Then slide new seal in place. Lower door back down on hinge. Job done.

1) Pull out lower basket plate holder out. Now would be a good time to check roller wheels. 2) Grasp lower spray arm base (knurled collar on base) and turn counter clockwise to release. 3) Install new spray arm and turn knurled collar on base clockwise to lock it in. 4) Reinstall lower basket plate holder.
* Done *

Replaced heating element. This was the path of least resistance but the problem persisted. I tried resetting the dishwasher but still nothing. My last resort is the circuit board. I checked the relays on the old board and they are fine so it must be something else on the circuit board. The dishwasher is not really that old (4 years) and everything else is fine. Just ordered the board so I really hope this fixes the problem.

Removed the screen cover and then removed two bolts with nut driver and removed white plastic retaining piece. Pulled flood switch out of housing (raise approximately 2 inches) then unfasten electrical plug. New part connects to electrical plug (pnly can fit one way so no problem with orientation). Pushed floid switch bsck into lace and attached white plastic retainer with two bolts and then set screen cover back. Very simple and easy.