GDF520PGJ0BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- James from OMAHA, NE
- Parts Used:
- WD28X30219
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Upper rack rusted out
Took out the old and swapped out the parts from the old one and put them on the new rack. Looks great and works great.
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- Customer:
- Jake from SACRAMENTO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WD22X33499
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The heating element on our dishwasher burned the lower spray arm, melting it in 2 pieces
Simply unscrewed the old damaged arm and screwed the new one on, took less than a minute
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- Customer:
- Jason from TULARE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WD12X32798
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Detergent module latch won’t close, latch broken
-Disabled power.
-1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate.
-Unplug wires harness to door
-Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches
-uncouple spring pulley from door hinges.
-Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove
-Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door)
-remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door.
-Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal).
-Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order.
Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate.
-Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.
I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.
I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills
-1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate.
-Unplug wires harness to door
-Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches
-uncouple spring pulley from door hinges.
-Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove
-Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door)
-remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door.
-Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal).
-Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order.
Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate.
-Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.
I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.
I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills
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- Customer:
- Yongxin from CARROLLTON, TX
- Parts Used:
- WD21X31899
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The machine has no response to any operation.
I replaced the User Control and Display Board and it is working very well now. The important things that should be noted are to take off the door and to open the door cover by unscrewing it. Those screws are located at the bottom of the door and two are hided inside.
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- Customer:
- ANNE from LAKE PLACID, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD28X28918
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Original lower rack rusted
Pulled out old rack and replaced with new rack.
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- Customer:
- Earl from WINCHESTER, TN
- Parts Used:
- WD19X25187
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Water would not drain.
Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.
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- Customer:
- Benjamin from VIENNA, VA
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10519
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The dishwasher was filling normally, but was not heating the wash water nor heating the dishes for the final dry. Dishes were not being properly cleaned and were not at all dry after the cycle.
I replaced the flood switch following instructions shown in readily available YouTube videos. In short, you remove the coarse and fine filters, then take out the bracket holding in the flood switch and finally the switch itself. After replacing the switch, the dishwasher works normally again.
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- Customer:
- Paul from PLAINFIELD, IL
- Parts Used:
- WD26X23258
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Stopped circulating water from sprayer arms
The repair is easy for most if you have basic skills.
1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)
2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.
3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.
4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)
5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.
6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)
7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.
8. Carefully slide out the unit.
9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.
10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.
11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.
12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.
13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.
14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.
Good luck! You can do this :)
1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)
2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.
3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.
4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)
5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.
6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)
7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.
8. Carefully slide out the unit.
9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.
10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.
11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.
12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.
13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.
14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.
Good luck! You can do this :)
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- Customer:
- Mary from KINGSVILLE, MO
- Parts Used:
- WD19X25187
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Drain pump quit draining
My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.
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- Customer:
- Robert from ST AUGUSTINE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10490
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
washer would nt ru it beeped 3x and flash start lite
Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher
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- Customer:
- Josef from MT CARMEL, TN
- Parts Used:
- WD08X21894, WD08X10092
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Leaking under door
Since I have granite countertops, unscrewed 2 screws on each side of cabinet. Unscrewed the toe plate, unplugged the wire connector, and disconnected the cable
from the door which was held by tie wraps. Pulled out dishwasher about a foot. Unhooked the spring cable to the door, lifted the door out and placed it on a spare table. With door face down on a towel, I unscrewed the screws at the bottom to release the latches, then unscrew the screws that hold the door locked in place. Turned the door on its back face up, wedged a flathead driver to release the settings display, from the body of the door. Separated the 2 panels replaced the foam rubber vent seal. Placed the face face down, reconnected both pieces of the door together pushing down. Rescrewed the bottom to lock the 2 pieces together reinsert the hinges, screwed them in with nutdriver1/4". Grabbed the old gasket, replaced it with new one, sliding it into the groove on the bottom inside of door. Reattached the door to the washer, rehooked the cables to the door, retired with zip ties the cable to the underside of door, reinstalled the wire connector, and re screwed the toe plate. Pushed the dishwasher, leveled, rescrewed into cabinet. Replaced the tub gasket.
from the door which was held by tie wraps. Pulled out dishwasher about a foot. Unhooked the spring cable to the door, lifted the door out and placed it on a spare table. With door face down on a towel, I unscrewed the screws at the bottom to release the latches, then unscrew the screws that hold the door locked in place. Turned the door on its back face up, wedged a flathead driver to release the settings display, from the body of the door. Separated the 2 panels replaced the foam rubber vent seal. Placed the face face down, reconnected both pieces of the door together pushing down. Rescrewed the bottom to lock the 2 pieces together reinsert the hinges, screwed them in with nutdriver1/4". Grabbed the old gasket, replaced it with new one, sliding it into the groove on the bottom inside of door. Reattached the door to the washer, rehooked the cables to the door, retired with zip ties the cable to the underside of door, reinstalled the wire connector, and re screwed the toe plate. Pushed the dishwasher, leveled, rescrewed into cabinet. Replaced the tub gasket.
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- Customer:
- Robert from CASEVILLE, MI
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10490
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dishwasher would not sense door was latched
Super easy repair, just removed the old latch and replaced it with the new one.
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- Customer:
- Gregory from EXPORT, PA
- Parts Used:
- WD08X21894
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Old corroded gasket
Replaced gasket with a new one before further problems occurred. Got to get it in but it was relatively easy to place and snap in just make sure it fits on the right place where gasket inside meets ridges on door so it will be on properly for proper fit.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from KENNEDALE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WD22X33499
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Loud banging sound when dishwasher was on.
The base of the spray arm literally just spins a little bit into place like a luer lock. Takes two seconds to replace.
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- Customer:
- Alvin from SCHENECTADY, NY
- Parts Used:
- WD08X21894
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Door gasket at bottom of door was falling apart and leaking
1. Shut off circuit breaker power
2. remove toekick
3 .disconnect door wire harness at bottom of main control board
4. release 2 wire ties securing harness to tub using long nose pliers
5. remove 2- 1/4 in. hex head screws from bottom of door
6. insert 5/32 in Allen wrench through existing holes in front leg and hinge arm when door is partially opened.(about 1/4 of the way)
7. repeat step 6 on both sides (this locks door partially open)
8. lift door up about 3 in. then tilt door in and remove door completely
9. slide old gasket out and replace with new gasket
9. reassemble door
2. remove toekick
3 .disconnect door wire harness at bottom of main control board
4. release 2 wire ties securing harness to tub using long nose pliers
5. remove 2- 1/4 in. hex head screws from bottom of door
6. insert 5/32 in Allen wrench through existing holes in front leg and hinge arm when door is partially opened.(about 1/4 of the way)
7. repeat step 6 on both sides (this locks door partially open)
8. lift door up about 3 in. then tilt door in and remove door completely
9. slide old gasket out and replace with new gasket
9. reassemble door
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