GDF520PGJ2WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed two latch screws and one electrical connection, Removed
two screws that hold D/W to countertop, pulled D/W out enough to remove the old latch, install new latch, push D/W back into place, rescrew to counter top and rescrew the two latch screws. This problem happened since new, had repairmen twice and they did nothing but move the dishwasher stating it needed alignment, never mentioned this easy repair....

Simply unscrewed the old damaged arm and screwed the new one on, took less than a minute

It took longer to uninstall and reinstall the dishwasher than it did to change out the part

Very straight forward. After removing the power source the dishwasher was pulled forward enough to access the the door hinge springs. Then the door could be removed and the inner skin separated to access the the dispenser mounting screws.

Looked up the replacement part on YouTube, watched a video and followed the instructions. Part ordered was the correct part and the video showed how to access for replacing. Watched a different video for hooking up the disconnected springs that allow the door to lower and close smoothly. Whole process for repairs was less than 30 minutes.

A quick twist of the locking nut

Disconnect power breaker. Remove the internal dishwasher plastic rack trays. Remove kick plate and kick plate insulation. Disconnected electrical connector plug from power board. Remove junction box cover and disconnected electrical wires (hardwired model - not typical electric plug model). Pull dishwasher out about 6"-8". Disconnect user interface cable from power board. Remove door. Follow electrical trouble shooting to determine that power board was getting power to the user interface board but lights still non-operational (including START button). Remove internal door panel to get to interface board and replace it with a new one. I decided to replace the power control board with a new one as well because I had ordered it prior to determining that it was the user interface board (module) that was bad. Reversed the installation, reconnected everything. Turned the power. Put the plastic trays back in. Tested the unit (empty and loaded) and, it worked.

the hardest part was removing the door from the face of the washer. Getting the door off required accessing the sides, so I had to lower the feet so it would slide out of the recess it sits in.
Disconnecting the springs for the door was straight forward and simple. once those were disconnected, it lifted off the hinges easily. The seals themselves were simply press-fit into the recesses. the old ones pulled loose cleanly and easily.. the new ones pressed into place very simply and without any real effort.
Getting the door back on was a little problematic, mostly in getting the hinge pins to line up properly.. but once it settled in, it line up itself, and the springs were easily replaced. I re-leveled the dishwasher, and then ran it for a full cycle to ensure it wouldn't leak anymore.

The pump went out after a few months of very loud noise during the drain cycle and then one day no drain or noise. A bit of research shows that this pump goes out frequently on this model so I ordered a new pump after inspecting the old pump for a clog or snag on the rotors.

The Install:
After removing the dishwasher from it's installed location and turning it on it's side (unplug water and electric of course), I was able to remove the pump from the two lines that connected it to the dishwasher and the drain line. I also had to unplug the pump from an electric connection to the dishwasher. Swapping out the new pump was the same but in reverse. Not a hard install, only simple tools required.

One note, my electric connection to the dish washer was different on this model pump since they changed the original part but there is an adapter included with this part so make sure it is in the box and fits before beginning.

I replaced the User Control and Display Board and it is working very well now. The important things that should be noted are to take off the door and to open the door cover by unscrewing it. Those screws are located at the bottom of the door and two are hided inside.

took off 2 sheet metal on the bottom, lowered the dish washer, pulled it out enought to unscrew 2 screws, unplugged the old part plugged in the new, put it back together.
Works like a champ.

Replaced latch

Followed video instructions step by step.
I was fortunate i had enough slack in water, electric and discharge lines to avoid disconnecting.

Two wrinkles
1. wire clips on my door had to be pulled/pried loose from door and there were two not one

2. could not slide dishwasher out after lowering adjusters and figured out it was the mounting tabs bumpimng the granite countertop, thus the use of putty knives to slide the dishwasher out.

Removed the top two screws that hold the dishwasher to the cabinet , remove the two screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel. Screw the levelers all of the way up and pull out the dishwasher about 6 to 8 inch. Hook the new cabe on the spring and pull around pulley and attach it to the door bracket. I replaced both cables. Reverse to complete.

The Mid Spray Arm Assembly was not spinning due to a dish that was in placed the dishwasher that was too high and hitting the arm. When it spun until it broke the center shaft. Replacement was easy. After removing power I pulled the upper tray out and removed the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly by unsnapping it from the tray. I twisted off the broken spindle of the damaged arm assembly from the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly and inserted the new arm and gently pushed it until it snapped into the Mid Tiered Assembly. Reinstalled the assembled parts by snapping into the tray making sure it was centered.