GDF520PSJ2SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I checked all the drain lines and filter for blockage. All looked good. I unplugged the unit and unscrewed the two screws adhereing the dishwasker to the counter. I shopvacced the water out of the bottom of the unit, slid it out, and carefully placed it on its back to access the pump. I unplugged the power to the pump, removed the intake and outake ring fasteners. Carefully removed the pump and inserted the new part, mopping up water as I went. Replace the rings, plugged in power to the pump, righted the unit and put it back. Replaced filter with the one that came with the kit.

*Unplug the dishwasher. My drain hose was long enough so no need to disconnect.
Access the motherboard and found a solid green light. This indicates the motherboard is not communicating with the user interface.

Door removal:
- removed kick plate
-unplugged door wire assembly and wire harness clip
-Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pull dishwasher out about 6 inches
-Detached pulley rope assembly from door hinge
-Open door about 4 inches and pull up and towards me.
-Lay the door down, removed vent cap and four T20 screws from the side bottom, remove two 1/4 inch bolt from each hinge(the hinges have four bolts, but only to need to be removed)
-push up on the plastic inner door from outer door and set aside.
-Unscrew four 1/4 inch bolts holding user interface and unplug wire assembly. (The two middle screws are longer than the two outer screws)
-be sure to ground yourself before touching the new user interface board
-read the instructions for the new interface board clip positions(mine was already position correctly)
-Assemble the door and be sure to connect the wire assembly and harness clip.

Dishwasher is under 2yrs old and suddenly failed to drain due to the drain pump not working. I read the reviews on how easy it was to change and went ahead and purchased one. After removing the screw from the appliance bracket under the counter and the two screws from the base plate, it was easy to pull the dishwasher from under the counter and away to flip to its side. I would recommend draining the drain hose first and making sure no water is in the tub. Keep a towel nearby. Removing the drain pump was simple. I needed a nose tip pliers to remove one of the hose clamps and a screwdriver for the other clamp. Once the pump was removed, I opened the old pump by twisting the top part while pressing the tabs to remove upper housing. There was a broken piece of glass that had wedged itself in the mechanism which prevented the pump from working. I wish I had checked that first, before purchasing a new drain pump. I kept the old pump as a backup for the future. It took no more than 20 minutes to get the pump replaced and the dishwasher back in place. Dishwasher drains just as new. By the way, costed under $100 with delivery. An appliance repair company wanted $250!!
Not the first time PartSelect saved me money and won’t be my last!

Removed the screen cover and then removed two bolts with nut driver and removed white plastic retaining piece. Pulled flood switch out of housing (raise approximately 2 inches) then unfasten electrical plug. New part connects to electrical plug (pnly can fit one way so no problem with orientation). Pushed floid switch bsck into lace and attached white plastic retainer with two bolts and then set screen cover back. Very simple and easy.

I removed the old gasket and installed the new one in the same position as the one I removed. I had to feel with my fingers for the ridge to insert the gasket so that it would hold. I must admit that I was skeptical that it would work (the old one didn't even seem very damaged). I ran a cycle and there was no more leaking. We've been using the dishwasher ever since with no issues of leakage.

Very satisfied customer.

A noisy dishwasher and water coming from underneath was being caused by a torn hose that is factory connected to the diverter. It was a little difficult to see at first as the hose sits slightly kinked when in it's normal position. Access to the diverter involves removal of the circulation pump. I ordered a new diverter which comes with metal screw on clamps. The main difficulty in installing is the positioning and alignment of the diverter and pump. My first effort resulted in a ripping of the attached diverter hose as I attempted to secure. I ordered another diverter. This time I used a lubricant to allow movement of the connecting hoses and made sure to not overtighten the clamps. I used a small mirror to make sure that the various hoses sat properly. Alignment took a bit of time. I then gently tightened the hoses. I ran the dishwasher, and found a leak, meaning that I needed to tighten these clamps a bit more. This is a doable repair that needs patience. The dishwasher is now very quiet and runs great!

the design of this part is easy to break when closing the top rack.

there is a hub that clicks in place and a spinner within this that makes the water spray evenly on the top of the tub of the dishwasher

the part broke when closing the rack [a dish too tall hit it]

it took less than 5 minutes to replace as the part just clicks into two edge spots i did this without removing the rack or even looking into the tub all by feel

Opened the door, put arm on bottom, slid in and twisted. Very, very easy. The right part means a lot. Thank you very much. “ Ol Stump”.

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly

Chances are your Lower spray arm is worn or jets are off. Replacing this part is very easy. Grab the base of the lower spray arm, twist and pull straight up. Place the new one in and twist lock in place. Repair complete!

Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.

Removed toe kick. Removed door counter weights and placed door on soft surface. Removed two bolts(I was able to leave hinges in place) slid door panel down and off. Removed plastic snap fit cover and 4 bolts from UI board. Two of the stand-offs where broken, glued them back into place. Ensured jumpers were set to my model, snapped cover back in place and remounted door. The dishwasher now runs through the cycle and clean light but did not dry. That turned out to be a bad flood switch.

The lower tray was simple. Lifted the old one out and placed the new one on the lid of dishwasher.

Upper tray: Used the closed point of scissors to gently push the little piece of plastic on the slide and removed the cap on each slider. Pulled the damaged tray off of the sliders. Removed the piece that shoots the water onto the dishes and placed it on the new tray. Put the tray back on the sliders and replaced the little caps back onto the slider so that the tray did not come off of the track. Voila!!

The service lady looked up possible trouble items and narrowed it down to the flood switch. Being the most likely cause, I ordered a new one. I removed both trays, the lower sprayer, and both screens. The flood switch has an electric plug on the bottom of it that just pulls off. Just as with other appliance repairs, I actually got the old flood switch to work again before trying the new one. I should have tried to free up the float before ordering the new one. But in case this happens again, I’ll just put the new one in.