GSC3500N00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.

The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.

Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.

First off on this model, if one of the telescopic spray arm weld assembly comes out it is NOT repairable you have to replace the whole part.
The assembly on my model number was simple you do NOT have to PRY anything out...(I broke the base spray arm trying to shove a screw driver into the Spray arm weld.(You could try this but chances are the plastic will break and I recommend replacing both parts why not???.)
There are two bolts on the sump protector basket that has to be removed first. They are 1/4 inch.
Once that cover is free there is a bolt (also 1/4 inch) on the base spray arm it is easy to see but hard to get to I used a very thin open ended wrench
1/3 turn at a time till I could get the socket on it.
Next there is a rubber gromet like thingy that just pulls loose remove it also.
Next take the spanner wrench (I used one with a rubber belt) wrap around base spray arm and turn counter clockwise it just unscrews.

reassembly is simple but this is GE so I inspected the sump and found one medal impeller and one black screw at the bottom!!!!!
The impeller is threaded and just screws onto the shaft (look at the diagrams on this web site to see placement.)
Throw the screw away it does nothing except if left there jacks up the impeller I am guessing it fell out of some factory workers pocket.
If after you put all the parts back in and the washer does not drain check your reassembly if you don't line the parts up just right the unit will not drain.
Don't forget the rubber grommet (not sure what it does but it's easy to replace after all is assembled) also there is a metal washer that is inbetween the base spray arm and the spray arm weld put it back before you click those two parts together it protect the plastic from wearing it is a bearing!!
If you found this site you are doing really good This site had all the diagrams I was looking for I love you guys you so rock!!! I wish the diagrams were bigger but they were adequate. GE 's site was no help and I doubt I will ever buy another one from them.
Good luck just remember look at the parts diagrams before attempting the repair.

...on the lower rack of the dishwasher. I simply snapped the pieces together and then snapped them into place. No tools necessary other than my own two hands (and the scissors I used to cut open the package!)

replaced rack, no repairs required

I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.

The bottom rack was a breeze since it wasn't attached to anything. The more difficult task was removing the plastic rail guard for the top rack. With some elbow grease and ingenuity, I finally figured out that it must be tilted prior to being popped out of its socket. Follow the same procedure after replacing the rack.

The part indicated here is a new design to replace a defective part that fails to keep the wheels on the lower dish rack. So far, the new axles work fine. Removal/Replacement couldn't be easier - it is helpful to use needle-nose pliers to get the old axles out. The new ones just snap in. Wheels stay on just fine. The rack is designed to roll on 8 total wheels, 4 on each side.

You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).

You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.

You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.

Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.

Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!

Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)

I looked at the gasket for the door, and noticed that it was flattened out and also noticed that there were two other seals at the lower left and right corners that were also hard and flattened. I found the parts for my dishwasher on this site and ordered them. Once I received them, I removed the old ones. They just came right out, and I inserted the new ones in the same spot. It was then that I noticed that there is another gasket for the door, that goes at the bottom of the inside of the door. The gasket for the door goes all the way around the outside, except for about a 4 inch section at the bottom of the door, right in the middle. I realized that I probably needed to get a new one of those too, so I ordered that part. I am now waiting on that small, 4 inch door gasket.

It was really easy I just snapped the axle and the wheels together and then snapped them onto the rack! simple as that

Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)

install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.

Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....

remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)

Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!

This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!

Siimply removed the rack and replaced the wheel assembly. Very easy

Very easy about 5 min replacement, Checked electrical conductivity to verify I had a bad solinoid, after I received the new part. I removed and replaced part by only removing and re-installed 2 screws and spring. Dishwasher worked like new.