DDT575SMF7ES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light.
So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle.
When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well.
Sincerely,
Scott

Pulled out old rack and replaced with new rack.

My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.

Followed your instructions and was finished in 5 minutes.

Researched what others have posted about on Parts select. That really helped with the diagnosis! Took a chance on a $28 part. Repairman was going to charge $150 just to show up, then diagnose, leave for 2 months while waiting for the part, charge another $150 plus the part to fix…
Just had to pull out dishwasher far enough to take the water supply line off. Then the water inlet solenoid then 2 more screws and a 2 pronged plug reattach water supply then done! 15 minutes MAX!!!

The dishwasher rack was supposed to come with wheels it did not but I was able to use the existing wheels from the lower rack and snap them on was pretty easy

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

The only directions that came with the new pump and filter, was how to replace the filter. I had to find a You Tube video to show me where the drain pump was located., and the way to get to it. I also had to figure out how the new pump was hooked up electrically, since the new pump did not work with the plug in on the machine.

Followed directions on YouTube

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...

The repair made it necessary to remove the door of the dishwasher. Removing the door seemed to be a daunting task, but after watching a YouTube video I made myself aware of the necessary steps to complete the task.

- After turning off the power to the dishwasher, I removed the kickplate panel, this gave access the wiring going to the defective board, which I unplugged.
- Removed the screws securing the dishwasher to the counter, these are located at the top of the machine and are accessible by opening the dishwasher door.
- Pull the dishwasher forward a few inches.
- On each side of the door is a spring loaded device that holds the door from falling open when not latched. They can be identified as white plastic items with a cable connected to them. Once removed take care to not allow the door to fall open, instead, when opened slightly raise the door off the unit.
- Lay the door on the floor.
- There are three sheetmetal screws on each side of the door, using your nut driver remove these screws. They secure outside of the door to the inner door.
- Stand the door up on the floor and raise the outer door panel, there are several plastic clips on each side the slide into slots on the inner door panel. I found it a little difficult to separate the panels, but with gentle persuasion they came apart.
- Lay the inner panel on the floor with the exposed electrical components facing up.
- At the top of the inner panel is a black plastic cover protecting the electronic components, this where the control panel lives.
- Remove the sheetmetal screws that secures this plastic cover.
- There are two wiring harnesses, remove them.
- The defective component can be lifted out.
- Install the new control panel.
- Reassemble.

Installed new heater by pulling unit out of it’s cubby hole. Was able to gain access to the nuts that hold it down and make the seal, as well as the electrical connections. Re-installed. Helpful if you remove both dish baskets and utencil basket for access when installing heater.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

1. REMOVE LOWER FRONT KICK PANEL.
2. CHECK FOR 14VOLTS BETWEEN PIN 2 AND PIN 5= NO VOLTAGE.
3. LOWER CONTROL BOARD PANEL
4. REPLACE ELECTRONIC CONTROL BOARD.
5. CHECK FOR PROPER OPERATION.

I had to replace a docking port. Parts Select had the part, labeled as stainless, just as this survey indicates. Well folks, the part I received is 100% plastic. It it the correct part, just not stainless. Should it have been stainless due to a faulty plastic design? I don’t know.

I used Parts Select for the simple directions for installation. I was eventually linked to a YouTube video for a completely different docking port. Does my part slip on? Does it press in? I don’t know.

Needless to say, this has been a cheap but frustrating ordeal that is not yet over. Thanks for having the stainless, but really plastic, part and for having directions for some other part available.