GSD2000F02WH General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

Loosened the clamps connecting the pump, disconnected all electric and stabilizer arm. Simply unscrewed the solenoid bracket and replaced with new part.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

Your video doesn't include disconnecting water supply disconnecting electrical and disconnecting drain hose but after all that the repair to change the solenoid was a easy task but the problem was not solved so I TRIED . thanks Robert

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

Pulled washer out. Found water inlet valve in lower left. Shut off power and water. Replaced valve with new.

Just like the video and replaced it

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

I replaced the drain solenoid which was about $35 dollars. It consisted of a couple of springs, a hanging bracket, a plastic part and couple of screws to fasten the bracket and the solenoid of course. My dishwasher now drains the water. Much easier fix than i thought it would be.

We bought a used dishwasher that appeared to be in good shape. After installing I ran it through its cycle. It seemed to work fine but after the wash cycle it would not pump out to drain. I found there was a solenoid that controlled the pump direction (drain or to the washer). It tested to see if it was getting power when it was supposed to pump to drain and it was. When I manually actuated the valve the dishwasher pumped out as it was supposed to. With power to the solenoid and the valve working as it should the only peice left was the solenoid. I ordered it from PartsSelect.com and it arrived in 2 days. Installation was only 2 screws and a spring and all now works great.
The on-line parts diagrams and fast shipping make PartsSelect the only choice when buying parts for my appliances.

After checking to make sure the filter wasn't clogged I removed the faceplate and, poking around a bit realized that the solenoid that actuates the drain valve was jammed. Removing it was was simply a matter of removing a pin and two screws. I reattached the new part, the only difficult part was holding the part in place while reattaching a few springs. Closed it up and its working like a champ.

I could not pull it out to get the new one in so I used a dremmel. Then pressed in the new one.

Thanks for your help.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

After removing the front panels, I removed two screws holding the valve in place. I turned off the water supply and removed the water line, unclipped the hose clamps and took the faulty valve out. I then reversed the above steps and turned the water back on. NO leak. Very easy to do andthe repair took ~20 minutes to complete.

Turned off the electricity to the dishwasher,removed the old solenoid,and put the new one on(very easy),turned the electrical breaker back on.