GSD5500G01BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I took the old one off and replaced it with the new one, which fir perfectly.

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

Removed screws and replaced the part. It couldn't of been earlier. Only problem this kit didn't include a toe kick and we are having a hard time finding it.

I connected one end of hose to the drain using a hose clamp and screwdriver then connected the other end to the dishwasher using anouther hose clamp and a screwdriver..

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

Open door, remove lower wash rack, remove 4 screws holding screen in rear of inside tub with 1/4 inch socket. Unscrew piston and nut assy for checkvalve, sounds like a mouthful but it is only 1 part. Checkvalve has 2 small ears on it which allow you to twist it out, it has treads on it. Flapper on check valve flapper rots away and water pumps back into tub instead of being routed to drain line to garbage disposal. Part with shipping was just over $20.

After two repair people were unable to solve the problem, I read similar stories in your forum and decided to replace the check value as a last ditch effort. Looking at your diagrams it seemed like an easy repair. Removed four screws with nutdriver and replaced value by hand. Ran washer three times and water drained completely. Still puzzled that this wasn't the first thing a repair person would check.
Websight very helpful.

Remove shield in rear. Unscrew valve using hand. Screw new valve in place.

Removed the 4 screws holding the filter screen assembly in the back of the tub. This exposed the Piston and Nut assembly which unscrewed fairly easily.
Replaced with the new part, put the filter screen assembly back in place ran the machine. The machine still stops with the blocked arm message - just not as frequently. The web researched fix with the piston and nut assembly replacement was obviously not the final answer. I am now out of options I believe except to bite the bullet and get a new machine. Any other suggestions are welcomed.

Remove the back filter to access check valve assembly. Twist check valve assembly to remove, not significant deterioration of rubber cap. Install new assembly. Re-install filter. Super-easy and effective!

took out 4 screws pulled piston out and changed put back together. very easy and inexpensive!! thanks

removed screen at back of dishwasher from the inside. Twisted piston & nut assembly out by hand and replaced with new one. Very, very simple. Dishwasher works perfectly now.

First I opened the dishwasher and removed the lower basket. Next I removed the 4 screws that hold the food filter plate in place at the back of the tub. Then I unscrewed the Piston/Check Valve assembly counterclockwise, located at the back center of the tub, by hand. I replaced the old part with the new one and reinstalled the filter plate. I ran a rinse cycle to verify that that all of the water was purged. Finally, I reinstalled the lower basket and resumed using my dishwasher.

First let me say, it's so easy even a caveman can do it. I removed the water out of the bottom. Then I removed the cover in the very back of the machine with a wrench. As soon as I did that, I could see the piston. Next, I twisted the white piston out with my fingers (this was the hardest part). I could see the piston had partially disintigrated. I ordered a new one, had it delivered in a few days, and put it all back in reverse. It took minutes. Thanks to the guy that posted his story, I was able to fix mine for $18.

Pulled the old one out and placed the new one right into place