GSD3210Z02AA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Dishwasher had flooded. Removed Dishwasher from cabinet and diagnosed problem. Found "PartSelect" on Internet and found Part kit available at reasonable price, in stock to ship immediately. Part #PS260801 [WD26x10013] contained enough parts to make installation easy and also I was able to cure discovery of slit in drain hose that attached to dishwasher drain outlet because kit included a short piece of hose and a hose clamp that allowed hose that had been trimmed to connect to outlet.

Removed old gasket, cleaned grooves, installed new gasket

Dishwasher had become noisier & noisier in last year during wash & rinse cycles. After looking at various web sites, decided to first pull motor/pump & try cleaning it out. That made no difference. Also looked for anything loose that could cause vibration. No change in operation. Decided to go for replacing motor/pump & found Part Select had best price. Part came next day! I was amazed! Looked at video, then removed old unit and attached new one. Easy because it was exactly same connections. Ran dishwasher and it sounded 100% quieter - like when new! Very happy!!

Grab the large portion of the assembly and unscrew it- if you've got hard water, this may take some serious effort. Screw in the new part, and your good to go!

In order to replace the upper dishwasher rack I needed to remove the end stoppers on the sliders. They were difficult to remove and one of them broke. I then ordered new end pieces. The new ones had been redesigned and were very easy to insert. If you need to replace the upper rack be certain to order new endpieces along with the order for a new rack. They are quite inexpensive.

Took lower panel off with screwdriver. Removed old spring. Attached new spring. Very easy, and I'm a woman. LOL

My dishwasher used this part # as a substitute for the original part, which i guess is no longer made. After reading the other customers' comments,I thought people were describing two very different experiences with the installation -- some just "popped the cap off the end," or "couldn't be easier." Others had so much difficulty getting the cap off that they broke the cap. I think people must be dealing with totally different kinds of plastic caps. When I started on mine, I couldn't find a way to just "pop" the cap off. It was made so that some small flexible stems or prongs that slid in when installed could not be slid back out. I used a pliers to twist, poke, tilt, bend, whatever I could do to get the plastic cap off the end. That wasn't working, so I tried to bend rims the metal track open, but found the metal was too thick or strong for me to bend it. So I had to twist and force the cap, and the piece that kept the cap on broke off. On one side of the rack it was broken so badly that it couldn't be put back on--kept falling off. Had to try to crimp the rims of the track inward to keep the cap on. It's very loose but it has stayed in for the most part. The cap on the other side cracked enough to get it out without completely breaking off a piece. It went back in better than the first side. Pretty frustrating! I suspect because I don't have the original part with replacement caps to slide in. ?????

Instead of purchasing a new dishwasher, I elected to replace the motor/pump assembly which the existing was noisy and leaking water. To start to took pictures of the existing assembly and marked the wiring connections. I read the instructions a few times until I fully understood and had the necessary parts identified. The only problem was the bracket that holds the solenoid has two holes for mounting the drain feedback bracket were not threaded. I was able to tap the holes (metric) and mount the bracket. Caution must taken not damage the solenoid coil.

I removed the plastic inner door liner, removed the timer assembly. Replaced both plastic parts, Detergent cup release arm and dispenser release timer lever. The most difficult part was reassembling the timer lever spring. Long nose pliers made it simple. Works like new.

Too easy- what made it easier was this is a portable roll-around unit I could lay on it's back. Loosen the two clamps around the washer pump, hook up the drain solenoid, washer motor wires, attach the motor hanger, that's basically it. It took longer to make sure I was working from the right set of instructions- this pump covers several models. Once I had that right, it was really a snap. Now the unit is so quiet. It once sounded like a jet engine in the kitchen, now it runs so quiet you can hear the water splashing around inside- a big improvement. We should be able to hang onto this thing for a while longer.

This was a 45 min project. New pump was a redesign. Match your style with the instruction sheet. ( pictures are upside down) Install drain on pump. Remove wirng connectors(3) and hanger. Raemove in/out pump clamps, and remove pump. Reverse procedure( I had to bend the new hanger to fit). When I first fired it up, nothing happened for about 5 min. Then water got into the pump and it started working. Quieter, more powerful spray. Grabbed a beer.

Followed the enclosed directions and the video helped a lot. My model needed a different motor mount bar than in the video but wasn't hard to figure out. From shutoff of the water, unplugging, and undoing the screws under the counter and pulling the old pump/motor and installing the new pump/motor and putting it all back took a leisurely 90 minutes. Be sure to hang onto the old plastic covers for the electric leads to reuse.

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.