GSD3210Z02AA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

using small flat head screwdriver popped off clips at end of runners --rolled in new rack-- inserted clips back into runners

In order to replace the upper dishwasher rack I needed to remove the end stoppers on the sliders. They were difficult to remove and one of them broke. I then ordered new end pieces. The new ones had been redesigned and were very easy to insert. If you need to replace the upper rack be certain to order new endpieces along with the order for a new rack. They are quite inexpensive.

Unscrew old stripped out one and put in new one ..wala!! Easy repair for this old lady...

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

Removed old gasket, cleaned grooves, installed new gasket

I took the dishwasher out from under the sink and looked at the pump and motor, saw that the cooling fan that this old style motor used was broke. Ordered this kit and installed it. I didn't even look at the directions that simple of a swap. Thank God!

Dishwasher had flooded. Removed Dishwasher from cabinet and diagnosed problem. Found "PartSelect" on Internet and found Part kit available at reasonable price, in stock to ship immediately. Part #PS260801 [WD26x10013] contained enough parts to make installation easy and also I was able to cure discovery of slit in drain hose that attached to dishwasher drain outlet because kit included a short piece of hose and a hose clamp that allowed hose that had been trimmed to connect to outlet.

Took lower panel off with screwdriver. Removed old spring. Attached new spring. Very easy, and I'm a woman. LOL

The motor/pump Kit I purchased could fix/be installed in any GE dishwasher made since 1970. I would guess that the one I have is about 15-20 years old. I encountered only one small problem with the kit------ a motor hanger that had to be bent a bit to fit correctly. Other than that it was a total breeze. The clear instructions included in the kit helped quite a bit. In 30 minutes or so ,I was done and our machine was back in operation

Followed easy instructions and completed repair in less than 30 minutes.

The hardest part about this is removing the end caps. I had repaired the wheels a long time ago so I had some idea about how to do it. Bending the back of the end cap very slightly and twisting got them out. Then it was simply a matter of switching the racks, which came with its own wheels, and then putting the end caps back on.

Removed the existing inner door by removing screws along the edge of the inside door. Had trouble removing the door latch but after lifting it on one side of the plastic door fitting, it eventually lifted out. I also had some trouble getting the spring loaded soap door back into the replacement inner door. After playing with it for awhile I realized that the soap door should be in the open position when putting the spring latch back on. The soap door won't close until you get the entire inner door mounted and back on. I also want to note the the inside vent in the upper part of the inner door needs to be removed from the old inner door and installed in the new one. I missed that at first and it allowed condensation to get inside the door which caused the dishwashers alarm to go off during the dry cycle. One last note that I initially decided not to replace the existing sound proofing material in the new door based on advice from a website that stated that I wouldn't notice the sound difference. That was definitely untrue. I had to disassemble the door, replace the sound proofing and then it sounded fine. Overall it was a little difficult to figure out but considering how inexpensive the replacement door was compared with a having a service repairman come out, it was worth the trouble.

I had some extra problems with my water supply line since this is an old house, but I won't dwell on that. If you have an older model like mine (probably 80's) the only trick is with the drain solenoid. The kit uses a newer style solenoid that is a little different. Without getting too technical here, let me just say that if the old solenoid has a little metal lever that is actuated when the plunger goes down do not discard it. From what I have read, the dishwasher will shut down with an error code if you don't use this part and you will also have 2 wires that are just hanging there with nothing to plug in to. You will need to use an included metal plate and screws to adapt that part to the new assembly. It takes a little mechanical aptitude, but after you figure it out it works perfectly. I did not see this mentioned in the instructions but the necessary parts were included. Replacing the pump and motor was fairly simple, and all the needed parts were included in the kit. I did remove the unit from under the counter and lay it on it's back for easy access to the pump and motor. It helps to watch some You-tube videos if you are unsure about how to do this, but make sure they are working on the brand you have. All dishwashers are NOT the same.

Turn off the power at the breaker panel. Turn off the water supply that goes to the dishwasher. Remove the front lower panel to gain access to disconnect the water line and electric. Now remove the two screws that connect the dishwasher to the countertop. You should be free to slide the dishwasher from under the countertop far enough to remove the drain hose. Slide the dishwasher out all the way and lay on the floor door down. Loosen the two clamps that hold the motor up. Remove the motor bracket, (should only be one screw. Disconnect the wires from the motor. Now just pull the motor down and out. Repeat the process to install the new motor. I took several pictures before I started removing anything. The instruction that comes with the kit is very good. Their will be parts in the kit that will not be used. Not to worry!

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.