GSD3810Z01AA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

followed the excellent instructions accompanying the gasket.

The new rack was somewhat similiar, but the center section that had to be snapped on was different...no spinner on top...thank goodness for the little video on how to take the stoppers off and reinstall them...it worked...thank you for what you have provided the public and me!

Removed old gasket, cleaned grooves, installed new gasket

Dishwasher had become noisier & noisier in last year during wash & rinse cycles. After looking at various web sites, decided to first pull motor/pump & try cleaning it out. That made no difference. Also looked for anything loose that could cause vibration. No change in operation. Decided to go for replacing motor/pump & found Part Select had best price. Part came next day! I was amazed! Looked at video, then removed old unit and attached new one. Easy because it was exactly same connections. Ran dishwasher and it sounded 100% quieter - like when new! Very happy!!

The hardest part about this is removing the end caps. I had repaired the wheels a long time ago so I had some idea about how to do it. Bending the back of the end cap very slightly and twisting got them out. Then it was simply a matter of switching the racks, which came with its own wheels, and then putting the end caps back on.

My dishwasher used this part # as a substitute for the original part, which i guess is no longer made. After reading the other customers' comments,I thought people were describing two very different experiences with the installation -- some just "popped the cap off the end," or "couldn't be easier." Others had so much difficulty getting the cap off that they broke the cap. I think people must be dealing with totally different kinds of plastic caps. When I started on mine, I couldn't find a way to just "pop" the cap off. It was made so that some small flexible stems or prongs that slid in when installed could not be slid back out. I used a pliers to twist, poke, tilt, bend, whatever I could do to get the plastic cap off the end. That wasn't working, so I tried to bend rims the metal track open, but found the metal was too thick or strong for me to bend it. So I had to twist and force the cap, and the piece that kept the cap on broke off. On one side of the rack it was broken so badly that it couldn't be put back on--kept falling off. Had to try to crimp the rims of the track inward to keep the cap on. It's very loose but it has stayed in for the most part. The cap on the other side cracked enough to get it out without completely breaking off a piece. It went back in better than the first side. Pretty frustrating! I suspect because I don't have the original part with replacement caps to slide in. ?????

I took the dishwasher out from under the sink and looked at the pump and motor, saw that the cooling fan that this old style motor used was broke. Ordered this kit and installed it. I didn't even look at the directions that simple of a swap. Thank God!

The motor/pump Kit I purchased could fix/be installed in any GE dishwasher made since 1970. I would guess that the one I have is about 15-20 years old. I encountered only one small problem with the kit------ a motor hanger that had to be bent a bit to fit correctly. Other than that it was a total breeze. The clear instructions included in the kit helped quite a bit. In 30 minutes or so ,I was done and our machine was back in operation

Followed easy instructions and completed repair in less than 30 minutes.

Ordered part Monday evening installed it on Wednesday afternoon. Required a pair of pump pliers to loosen old part, new part screwed in by hand. No leaks, no problems. Took longer to explain what caused the problem then it did to fix it. I explained to the owner that overloading the dishwasher was most likely the cause. Dishes can move or fall against the riser during wash, preventing it from dropping back down. Pulling the lower rack out with the riser bound up caused the part to crack. Thanks for the speedy delivery!

In order to replace the upper dishwasher rack I needed to remove the end stoppers on the sliders. They were difficult to remove and one of them broke. I then ordered new end pieces. The new ones had been redesigned and were very easy to insert. If you need to replace the upper rack be certain to order new endpieces along with the order for a new rack. They are quite inexpensive.

Grab the large portion of the assembly and unscrew it- if you've got hard water, this may take some serious effort. Screw in the new part, and your good to go!

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

Followed the enclosed directions and the video helped a lot. My model needed a different motor mount bar than in the video but wasn't hard to figure out. From shutoff of the water, unplugging, and undoing the screws under the counter and pulling the old pump/motor and installing the new pump/motor and putting it all back took a leisurely 90 minutes. Be sure to hang onto the old plastic covers for the electric leads to reuse.