GSD2001G02WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Basically, I told my girlfriend, hey, if you are board, this box has the parts to fix the dishwasher in it. When I got home from work, I had to connect one wire, and tighten a couple of screws. The kit has great, easy to follow directions. Thanks!!

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

Not really difficult to do. First remove the washer from the counter and flip it over. Carefully determine the correct drawing in the instructions which matches your machine. Follow insructions and double check everything. Took about an hour - and I saved about $350.00 by fixing it myself rather than buying a new one!

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.

I measured the diameter of the working wheels from the existing ones, and located the parts I needed from the website. I order two packages, each containing the wheels and axles for the rack.
When delivered, I snapped the wheels onto the delivered axles. Then, I snapped the axels unto the bottom rack, at the correct place. I used a large pliers for leverage because the axel was a bit tight to just simply snap on.
The middle wheels are located just behind the front wheels, thereby offering support when the botton rack is pulled forward for loading. Likewise, they offer support when the rack is pushed back in place.

Opened package, removed cap and screwed it in place.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

I had a problem where the GE dishwasher would randomly stall upon startup due to a dead spot in the motor which prevented it from energizing. I removed the dishwasher's bottom access panel to inspect it and found that not only was the motor dead but it had a sizable leak emanating from the pump seal. I removed the dishwasher from under the cabinet area and turned it over to make it easier to replace the motor and pump assembly which only took a matter of minutes; the most difficult part of the repair being the reinstalling of the dishwasher. The replacement motor/pump assy was not only modified from the original parts but it is also much quieter than the original. I also have to commend PartSelect on their very speedy delivery which was only 2 days. All in all with a couple of minor modifications that was taken care of with the included parts the repair went very easy.

I went to your site and check all the diagrams and then read the postings from others. I turned off the electrical breaker then took off the lower cover of the dishwasher. After disconnecting the water and electricial connections I was able to remove the 2 screws holding the unit in place and it came right out. I turned the unit over and was able to just remove the old part and put the new part in place. The whole job took me about one hour but I had never worked on a dishwasher before. Your site made the repair very easy to do on my own.

We bought a used dishwasher that appeared to be in good shape. After installing I ran it through its cycle. It seemed to work fine but after the wash cycle it would not pump out to drain. I found there was a solenoid that controlled the pump direction (drain or to the washer). It tested to see if it was getting power when it was supposed to pump to drain and it was. When I manually actuated the valve the dishwasher pumped out as it was supposed to. With power to the solenoid and the valve working as it should the only peice left was the solenoid. I ordered it from PartsSelect.com and it arrived in 2 days. Installation was only 2 screws and a spring and all now works great.
The on-line parts diagrams and fast shipping make PartsSelect the only choice when buying parts for my appliances.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

Inspected the old gasket. Removed, cleaned, re-seated existing gasket. Tested and found smaller leaks. Purchased and installed new gasket. Majority of leaks stopped but some detergent still leaks. Unsure what the problem is with that but the main leaks have been fixed. Dishwasher is less than 5 years old. Thank You.

REmoved the bottom to plates on the dish washer
removed the old solenoid put the new one in and
the washer was fixed. if i could replace it anyone
could do it.

After checking to make sure the filter wasn't clogged I removed the faceplate and, poking around a bit realized that the solenoid that actuates the drain valve was jammed. Removing it was was simply a matter of removing a pin and two screws. I reattached the new part, the only difficult part was holding the part in place while reattaching a few springs. Closed it up and its working like a champ.

I replaced the drain solenoid which was about $35 dollars. It consisted of a couple of springs, a hanging bracket, a plastic part and couple of screws to fasten the bracket and the solenoid of course. My dishwasher now drains the water. Much easier fix than i thought it would be.