GSD2301N00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- anthony from easton, PA
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10261
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
dishwasher door switch
unplugged old switch and installed new one. it took 5 minutes to do. 20.00 saved me 400.00 on a new washer.
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- Customer:
- John from Naples, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10261
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Dishwasher would not switch on whenon/off lever was pulled accross
Switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher.
Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.
Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.
Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.
Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.
Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.
Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.
Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.
Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.
Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!
Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.
Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.
Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.
Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.
Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.
Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.
Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.
Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.
Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!
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- Customer:
- Leanne from Divide, MT
- Parts Used:
- WD12X10284
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The rinse aid fill cap was stripped.
I removed the old cap and put on the new cap.
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- Customer:
- Douglas from Waterford, MI
- Parts Used:
- WD35X21038
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Bad wheel
Pull rack out put wheel on put rack back
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- Customer:
- Judith W. from Topeka, KS
- Parts Used:
- WD35X21038
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lower rear rack wheels
Quick and easy...a 7 yr old could have done it.
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- Customer:
- Felicia from Philadepia, PA
- Parts Used:
- WD22X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
dishwasher part
My son took the part and it plop right into place with a click, and we were able to use are dishwasher again,Thanks
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- Customer:
- John from Corvallis, OR
- Parts Used:
- WD12X10284
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old rinse aid fill cap broke off at base
I removed the broken stub of the old fill cap with a screw remover. This was the only part that wasn't easy. The new cap fit fine.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Riverview, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10261
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The unit would not start.
First I turned off the breaker to the dishwasher. I then removed the bolts that held on the inner cover(note the two small bolts go on the bottom one on each side). I lifted the switch up and disconnected the wire clips from each side. I then put the new switch in place with the wires attached. Then replaced the cover and screwed it into place. Closed the door and flipped the breaker back on and turned the dish washer on and it started up. A very easy replaceable part.
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- Customer:
- Martha from Fort Worth, TX
- Parts Used:
- WD35X21038
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
miss wheels
It was amazingly easy repair. I just order the correct parts from “PartSelect” and installed them and done. It was fixed.
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- Customer:
- Heidi from North Las Vegas, NV
- Parts Used:
- WD02X25492
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Right door spring broke
Took lower panel off with screwdriver. Removed old spring. Attached new spring. Very easy, and I'm a woman. LOL
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- Customer:
- carole from Libertyville, IL
- Parts Used:
- WD35X21038
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broken lower wheel ion lower dishwasher rack
Pieces just snapped together. Simple an quick. Part select was wonderful in assisting.
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- Customer:
- Sally from Wauconda, IL
- Parts Used:
- WD35X21038
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
One of the wheels and hangers went missing.
Check website, order part. Hardest part was determining which was the right part. Needed the axle--I call it the hanger. I had previously called and ordered, but only received the wheel with no way to attach it. Push the axle into the wheel. Push the axle onto the rack. Since it was new, it didn't slip right on, and had to push it hard. (However, when it snapped on, three of the other wheels and axles came off.) Had to put them back on as well. Much easier, as they were older and not as snug. Total time: Took longer to open the package than put it on.
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- Customer:
- David from Bradenton, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD12X10284
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dishes cloudy, spotting
Unscrew old stripped out one and put in new one ..wala!! Easy repair for this old lady...
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- Customer:
- Peter from Davenport, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD14X10009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Hing arm broke
Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...
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- Customer:
- William from Sterling, VA
- Parts Used:
- WD15X10014
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Serious water leak into basement from around a kitchen sink pipe.
Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.
The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.
Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.
Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.
That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.
The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.
Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.
I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.
The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.
Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.
Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.
That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.
The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.
Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.
I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.
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