GSD2201F00AD General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

after I let the unit rest on its side to expose the bottom part, I took a picture just in case for reference; I marked all electrical connections, so it would go to right place into the new unit; removed the old pump unit by loosening the rubber clamps, for the inlet and outlet; detached the support sling for the motor unit; installed the new pump unit; it fits like a charm and it was wonderful; I had some bad experiences of replacement parts from other suppliers, on many things that I fix , that won't really fit like the original, but this one fits like a charm; I made my first test run with just water with out the detergent and after one cycle I used the necessary dishwasher detergent and it works just like brand new; Thank you, PartSelect, I will be ordering any of my part needs from you. - G.V.

Just like the video and replaced it

Your video doesn't include disconnecting water supply disconnecting electrical and disconnecting drain hose but after all that the repair to change the solenoid was a easy task but the problem was not solved so I TRIED . thanks Robert

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

Pulled washer out. Found water inlet valve in lower left. Shut off power and water. Replaced valve with new.

I had a problem where the GE dishwasher would randomly stall upon startup due to a dead spot in the motor which prevented it from energizing. I removed the dishwasher's bottom access panel to inspect it and found that not only was the motor dead but it had a sizable leak emanating from the pump seal. I removed the dishwasher from under the cabinet area and turned it over to make it easier to replace the motor and pump assembly which only took a matter of minutes; the most difficult part of the repair being the reinstalling of the dishwasher. The replacement motor/pump assy was not only modified from the original parts but it is also much quieter than the original. I also have to commend PartSelect on their very speedy delivery which was only 2 days. All in all with a couple of minor modifications that was taken care of with the included parts the repair went very easy.

Not really difficult to do. First remove the washer from the counter and flip it over. Carefully determine the correct drawing in the instructions which matches your machine. Follow insructions and double check everything. Took about an hour - and I saved about $350.00 by fixing it myself rather than buying a new one!

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Used drill and easy out to remove broken part, then put in new one

Inspected the old gasket. Removed, cleaned, re-seated existing gasket. Tested and found smaller leaks. Purchased and installed new gasket. Majority of leaks stopped but some detergent still leaks. Unsure what the problem is with that but the main leaks have been fixed. Dishwasher is less than 5 years old. Thank You.

Unscrewed unit from counter and loosened legs using adjustable supports under dishwasher. After switching off water under sink and power at circuit breaker, removed motor and pump assembly and replaced with repair kit.

Turned off the electricity to the dishwasher,removed the old solenoid,and put the new one on(very easy),turned the electrical breaker back on.

After removing the front panels, I removed two screws holding the valve in place. I turned off the water supply and removed the water line, unclipped the hose clamps and took the faulty valve out. I then reversed the above steps and turned the water back on. NO leak. Very easy to do andthe repair took ~20 minutes to complete.

Identified solinoid responsible for the operation of the drain flapper valve had become damaged, possibly due to its coil shorting and overheating, the inside plastic insulation then melted and came up through the solinoid pin hole. I removed the tension spring holding the flapper drain valve shut, removed the eclip holding the white phenelic arm connected to the tension spring, removed the two screws mounting the solinoid assy. I threw out the bad solinoid. I then proceeded to install the replacement solinoid in reverse order of removal. The end. Works like a champ ! Thank you for your quick shipping response time. My wife is now once again happy. As you know, if my wife isnt happy, I sure wont be happy. :)

Opened package, removed cap and screwed it in place.