GHDA356N00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Very easy! Removed 4 screws that was holding the valve to the bracket. Placed bracket over water inlet line. Attached copper threaded coupling with pliers.Screwed valved on to the coupling. Attached bracket to the valve with 4 screws. Reattached water line. Attached bracket to frame of dishwaser. Put kickplate back on and done!

All new seals

replaced new wheels

Ordered pump mechanism and replaced defective pump. A very easy replacement

just snapped the new part in. couldn't have been easier

Switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.

Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.

Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.

Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.

Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.

Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.

Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.

Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.

Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

The hardest part about this is removing the end caps. I had repaired the wheels a long time ago so I had some idea about how to do it. Bending the back of the end cap very slightly and twisting got them out. Then it was simply a matter of switching the racks, which came with its own wheels, and then putting the end caps back on.

The new rack was somewhat similiar, but the center section that had to be snapped on was different...no spinner on top...thank goodness for the little video on how to take the stoppers off and reinstall them...it worked...thank you for what you have provided the public and me!

Removed bottom panel unplugged wires removed two screws removed it then replaced it

Repair was really easy just like the repair video, but you have to lay on the floor. Unfortunately, the problem wasn't the solenoid, but the pump/motor assembly. Be sure to check the solenoid operation before replacing (making sure it is cycling). It might be the pump/motor assembly. Good luck!

Put part in. Put the door cover on & turned on & it worked. Thanks for having the part. So far, so good.

After installing the part, ran the washer once more. The water still remains in the washer. Tried washing several times. The problem is still the same.

Disconnected power at circuit breaker, removed lower spray arm, fine filter, inlet cover, and sump cap - manually drained water from inlet sump, then laid dishwasher on its side. Removed motor/pump housing, collection chamber, and associated hoses from inlet sump and extracted inlet sump from inside the dishwasher. Reversed process to install new inlet sump, paying careful attention to ensure a leak-free repair. The problem was damage to the part of the inlet sump that receives the feed from the fine filter - the inlet sump material had been damaged when I tried to clear some debris, resulting in a less than perfect seal when the motor/pump reversed and attempted to push water out of the dishwasher. New inlet sump, perfect seal, all the pressure is now pushing water out of the dishwasher during the drain cycle. PartSelect diagnostic app and parts diagrams were instrumental in being able to repair the dishwasher for less than $25.00 versus a service call costing hundreds. Thank you.

Water was leaking from under refer next to installed under counter dishwasher. Once determined to be dishwasher not refer I removed dishwasher toe place was able to see dripping inlet solenoid valve. I had to disconnect 11V power, shut off inlet water, disconnect inlet water house and remove dishwasher from under counter. Once dishwasher was in center of kitchen I flipped it upside down and removed the electric solenoid inlet valve. Removing the valve took one wrench to remove inlet hose then two wrenches to remove 90 degree brass fitting and another to hold solenoid. I used a nut drive to remove two screws that released the solenoid from the dishwasher frame. I used teflon tape to reattached the 90 degree brass fitting and inlet hose.