ZBD6900D00II General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Simply screwed in the new rinse aid cap to replace the old one

Middle arm bearing used a pair of pliers to unscrew the screw and to re-screw with new bearing in place. NO did not have to disconnect the arm. Lower arm turn counter clockwise to remove (comes off very easy) stick needle nose straight down opening and remove bearing. Use needle nose to place new bearing.

We noticed our detergent door was not opening on cue to dispense the soap and it was leaving our dishes dirty. It came to be that our spring was sprung on the detergent door. I researched it and I could either buy the spring or the whole detergent contraption (installing the contraption was one wrench easier but cost $35 more). Knowing my husband the way I do, I decided to do the more costly route. I followed the instructions from previous installers on here and me and my husband did it in 30 minutes! I do agree that it is a two man job for some of it as I stressed to him NOT to take the front off haphazardly, as it was $400 to replace that! We took the 12 or so screws off, detached the line to the detergent dispenser, reattached, screwed it into the door and replaced the front 12 or so screws again. Easy peasy! Unbelieveable!

I've never done this before, so I took my time and it took 25 minutes. Now that I know what it looks like inside, it would only take maybe 15 minutes. There are 12 Phillips head screws to remove the front of the washer door. Once off, you need to unplug the large electrical plug to the "dashboard". Remove the screws holding the detergent dispenser, and unplug the two electrical plugs attached. Plug the two plugs back into the new dispenser, and replace the screws, being careful to not tighten to tight. Replace the front of the dishwasher door, with the 12 screws and you're done. Easy job!

I had a small leak from under the dishwasher which turned out to be a tiny hole in the Pump Connector. With the power off I pulled the dishwasher out of the cabinet and disconnected the water and drain lines to give me more room. I put the dishwasher on its back to have access to the pump assembly. A couple of nut drivers and the pump connector is accessible. Replaced the pump connector and over tightened it "Crack"... had to replace the Main Conduit connector ($50). I was able to turn a simple $20 repair into a $70 repair. Now that's talent!

Replaced the part by taking off the srews on the inside of the dishwasher door (all of them)to get to the backside of the soap dispenser. Remove an electrical connector by pulling (had to pull off using pliers as it was really on there). Then a couple of screws hold to to the inside of the door. Pretty straight forward.

On the Model PDW9880, there are about 14 screws to be removed. I used a large Phillips driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. You cannot use a cordless drill driver for about 10 of the screws unless you have a long bit, as the 10 screws are so close to the body of the dishwasher door that the chuck of the drill will not clear. At the top of the door there are two screws on either side of the latch. The two screws are attached to white plastic blocks that serve as a lip to hold the outer door to the liner. It took a little wrestling with the two plastic blocks to slide them out from under the lip, releasing the outer door. Be sure not to let the outer door drop away, as it will tug on the ribbon cables that connect the display to the dishwasher. Keep a towel or sponge handy to keep the
dishwasher handle from resting on the tile floor. There were 4 electrical connections, including two ribbon cables, both of which just pulled out. I needed a needle nose pliers to remove the 2 spade connectors from the detergent dispenser solenoid, in order to pull on the connector, not tug on the wire. The entire repair is actually pretty straightforward and easy. It took 40 minutes, doing it slowly and carefully. But please don't tell anyone that it is easy, because my wife thinks it was an extremely complex repair, involving the risk of high voltage electricity.

The replacement part fits different makes and models, and does not have any brand identification, other than the Cascade logo cast into the front. Other than that, it appears to be identical to the original. Note: The
soap cup does not open for several minutes in the cycle, so don’t waste time or frustrate yourself (as I did) by checking the dispenser during the first 10 minutes of the cycle. Incidentally, although the company is in Canada, my part shipped from Central California (Fresno) and arrived in the Los Angeles area the next business day.

The quiet power 3 has the heating element in the back, so remove the screws holding the unit in place. Remove the bottom cover and disconnect the water inlet pipe, (after turning off the water of course). Discard the copper tubing if applicable, and pull dishwasher out until you can tilt it forward. Unsrew the plastic nuts and remove the wires for the element. Test the old one to make sure that you need to replace it. When sure of the problem reinstall in the reverse order. Replace the copper with stainless steel braided line and test.

Used needle nose pliers to get them off.G

The tub gasket is very easy to replace. First I pulled out the old gasket then using the center marking on the new gasket, I centered the gasket at the top then pushed the gasket into the track. At the bottom I reused the wire that holds the two ends in place making sure I attached the separation wire in the same configuration as with the old one. I had another leaking problem with the seal on the bottom of the door. GE does not sell a repair seal for the door bottom and a new inner door must be purchased at around $200. I made that repair using an old bicycle inner tube. I cut the tube into a one inch strip and epoxyed the strip to the tub where the door meets the tub.. Worked perfectly!

Replacing the soap dispenser was relatively easy, But a word of caution.when I removed the front panel, as it fell off, it pulled the electrical tape out of the door. That of course ruined the electrical panel. Even better, that panel is no longer made. So unless you really want a new dishwasher, be sure you support the front panel when removing. Probably the easiest way to do that (I found out later) is to sit on the floor with the front panel on your legs as youminscrew it. Do read other reviews about how to do the repair as the part comes with no instructions and GE is of virtually no help.

I was offered a free dishwasher for the taking. The soap dispenser latch was broken. I ordered the part, it arrived two days later by standard delivery. The door cover has to be opened and seperated. The difficulty is that the door will not stay down or up without assistance. Once open, the dispenser is replaced by removing 6 screws from within the door compartment (between the door front cover and inside door wall. Two electrical leads must be removed and reconected to the new part. Removing them is problematic, since one connecter partially chipped off using pliers to gain a grip. After inserting the new part the 6 screws are installed from behind the part and the leads reconnected. There are two ribbon connectors for the control panel and display. They did not come loose so I left them connected, which made it awkward to manipulate the various parts with the door split open. Putting the ribbons in proper place was easy if careful. Securing the outside and inside halves of the door completes the repair. I found instructions on google. This was tricky but easy, as the door parts were often trying to move out of an accessible position for working. Otherwise it was one of the easiest things I have done. It would be easier with two people, and I had only one good arem to work with due to shoulder surgery, but it was successful. The dishwasher works fine, and the price was right at $45.00 in parts plus shipping for a top of the line model.

This is a somewhat difficult task in that the dishwasher had to be pulled out of the cabinet which required the water inlet hose to be removed (and water to the hose to be shut off). Once the dishwasher was free of the cabinet it had to be flipped over to reach the water inlet valve. Once the valve was replaced go in reverse to reinstall the dishwasher. Worked fine after I got everything installed; no leaks.

Ordered part online, arrived two days later. Removed and replaced dispenser with new unit. Easy job. Dishwasher works like new.

Opened dishwasher after it completed a wash cycle. Found the rinse dispenser cap had come off during the wash and melted on the heating coil at the bottom of the machine. Pulled cap off of coil, made sure coil was not disturbed. Looked in various sites for cap. Finally found this site where I didn't need to order the whole mechanism and could order just the cap. Received the cap, screwed into the dispenser, fixed. The only problem I had was that there were two possible caps so I picked the one that was the same color as the original one. Project completed. Thanks