PDWT480V50SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

After removing the screws, the front of the dishwasher easily came off. I put 2 screws back in to hold the control panel in place. I did not want that to dangle while replacing the part. The part came off easily after removing the screws. Everything went together easy.

The repair was easy. Removed all the screws from the inside door panel, approx. 11. Watch out for that last screw as there isn't anything else holding the outside panel, inside panel and control panel together other than those screws. I then unplugged the old dispenser backed out another 6 screws and replaced the old dispenser with the new one. Put it all back together within about a half hour.

Easiest repair ever. My new rack arrived in three days, opened the box and slid it in. Better quality than the original. Excellent service!

went online to parts select. Looked at parts that could be leaking. Thought it was the sump. Purchased the sump and the pump connector. Almost bought the adaptor pump assembly, but it was $29.00. Parts arrived in about 2 days. Turned off water and power to dishwasher. Disconnected the copper water line. Hardest part was getting the dishwasher out of space. Once out, layed it on it's side. Parts held together with clamps. Took it apart like a puzzle. Replaced the parts, tightened the clamps. Pump connector hard to unscrew. Got a good hand grip on it and turned it loose. Sump did have a hole in it. Put everything back together. water, electric, etc. Turned it on and it was leaking. Leak coming from the adaptor pump assembly. Couldn't wait 2 more days.Found part at a local parts store for $40.00. Was able to change it by reaching underneath and not pulling dishwasher out again. All three parts needed to be changed. Dishwasher now working fine. If your leaking underneath and taking out the dishwasher change those 3 parts.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

I repaired by replacing both inner rails.
I found that removing an inner rail from the rack is difficult. It can be done with strong fingers separating the tabs of a front Y hook after releasing the rear hook so the rack can slide off the horizontal locator rods. It helps to apply liquid soap to the old inner rails Y clips to reduce friction.
Clean the outer rails thoroughly with a brush and liquid cleaner so the rails can engage
Inserting the inner rails into the outer rails is difficult when they are already attached to the rack. It's much easier to insert the rails independently of the rack. Push the outer rails into the inner rails while applying force to keep them engaged

Attach the rack to the rails by inserting the long rear horizontal rods of the rack into the rear clips of the rail.
Assure the tabs in the rear clips are locked
Again, it helps to apply liquid soap to the new inner rail Y clips to reduce friction
Hold the rails in place and pull the rack forward to engage the front rails with Y clips to the shorter front horizontal rods of the rack.
Force them together to spread the Y clips and lock the rails into them.

The noise came from the dishwasher door. Removed the Phillips screws from the door edge to gain access by separating the front of the door. Had to disconnect some of the electrical connectors to allow more access. Disconnected the blower motor connector. Removed the screws holding the motor assembly and removed the blower motor. Installed the new blower motor and reconnected the electrical connectors. Reassembled the door and cycled the dishwasher. Very quiet now!

Slid it in. Very easy and the replacement part is built better than the original part.

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

Repaired the soap dispenser.

Pull out the old, died gasket. Clean out track that holds gasket. insert new gasket.

Followed the instruction video on your website. It was accurate and valid. The repair should have taken 15 mins., instead one of the screws holding the dispenser was frozen. Tried DW-40, and liquid wrench. Neither worked because the screw was in plastic.Finally got out the Dremel and cutting wheels. Had to cut away enough of the unit until I could get at the screw (it was the center bottom one). Sliced through some more of the housing, then cut a notch in the screw head deep enough so I could apply enough pressure with a flat blade screwdriver to open it. After that things went as smoothly as could be expected.A bad design and cheap materials.