PDWT380V50SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Exactly as described by a previous reviewer. I pulled out the old rack, put in the new rack and just moved over the cutlery rack.

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.

Detached the dishwasher from the cabinet. Slid it out. Removed small guide wheel that the cable went through. Removed the old broken cable. Replaced with new cable. Replaced the guide wheel. Hooked the cable to the door. Hooked the other end to the spring and hooked the spring to the body of the dishwasher. Put some WD40 on the the cable guide. Slide the dishwasher back under the counter and attached it to the cabinets. All done.

This repair applies to the right and left side upper slide rails for the upper dish rack, GE part number WD30X10039, (they are identical for each side) as used in GE dishwasher PDWT100V00BB.

No tools are required. A flashlight will come in handy and a wet rag or old towel may be useful to clean the DW interior while everything is apart.

1. Remove the upper dish rack from the old rails by sliding the rack forward as far as it will go and unclip the small horizontal locator rods on the dish rack (there are two on each side of the rack) from the corresponding plastic clips on both rails (mine had already broken so I skipped this step).

2. It is not necessary to remove any of the plastic end caps or clips to remove the old rails. Instead, look for a small (1/2 inches long) white lever about halfway along the inside of each the old rails (they face into the interior of the dishwasher). They will not be removed-they will retain the new rails. This is where the flashlight is helpful.

3. Push the left lever down and the right lever up (because the rails are identical but flipped) while pulling the rails forward. The rails should slide out. Be careful that the small plastic ball bearings on the innermost part of the old rails don't escape from their races. My DW was older and evidently he balls had deteriorated to the point that they no longer fit in their races. They went everywhere.

4. At this point, it may be worthwhile to clean the tracks still inside the DW where the new rails will go to remove accumulated gunk so that the new rails will slide as new.

5. Slide the new rails into the left and right tracks, keeping the same orientation as with the old rails. They should slide on easily without the necessity to pushing the levers again-the levers should simply move out of the way and then return to lock the new rails into place. It may take one or two tries to align the rails properly on the existing tracks, but once this is done the new rails should slide on easily.

I may have made this sound more difficult than it really is. It's fairly easy, but I couldn't find a video online for this particular repair and wanted to provide as much detail as possible. Good luck!

The repair is simple and straightforward. I rated as a bit difficult since the rack mounts on the new were located in the wrong place.

Releasing the rack from the slide rails requires either a Phillips screwdriver or a ratchet and socket.

The issue to check for, which I missed, is if the rail mounts on the new rack are in the same position as on the old rack. Mine were not and I did not discover until the new rack was fully installed. Once the unit was back out, 7 SS screws need to be removed on each side to move the mounts to the correct position.

Removed original silverware basket from dishwasher rack. Replaced it with new silverware basket. Placed original silverware basket in recycle bin (plastic content). So easy, even my 24 year old son could do it!

Removed the wire clip, then removed two screws on mounting bracket. Then disconected the hose. Removed the brass elbow.

Then reversed these steps and I was done.

No tools required. The seal just pushes into a channel around the tub. The lower ends are held by a wire that spans the lower edge of the door. I started with the lower end since I didn't know just how the seal was installed and found the wire that sticks into the hollow center of the end of the seal. The seal just pulls out so removed it and the wire. Cleaned the seal channel and wire and installed the new seal starting at the bottom and working upwards. after the lower ends are anchored,I found the center of the seal and upper channel and pushed it in place and worked around the corners and down. I did that because I have seen seals stretch as you push them in place and end up in the middle with excess material you have to work back into the seal channel.

I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!

Turn off water .Remove 4 screws holding lower front panels.Remove panels, valve is on left . Remove 2 screws that hold valve , slip valve up over clip. Using pliers slide clamp back, remove hose from valve.disconnect wire clip , unscrew from water fill line. Install new valve in the reverse order

First of all the part I ordered came a lot sooner than expected.
I thought it would take 5 to 10 days.
I ordered it on a Tuesday and it was at my door on Thursday.
The part was difficult to take off as this was the first time I attempted this.
When the new part came, I saw that I went to too much trouble to take the old one off.
It was installed in about 40 minutes and we were off and running.

The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.

Received part, removed lower panel and shut water and power off to appliance. Used flash light to see under dishwasher, removed the two screws that held part in place. Loosed clamp that held the water tube in place to part. Placed towel down to catch water. Pulled the line out so I could get to the nut that is attached to inlet part. Unhooked the plug after all water was gotten up. The main knuckle that's attached to the pump was on so tight that I took it to my local gas station for an mechanic to unscrew it for me....I have arthritis in my hands. Station is only two mins from me and wasn't a problem for them to do for me. Came back put fresh Teflon tape on joint and reattached it to new part. Attached all hoses and clamps, plugged electrical prongs back in and attached bracket back to body of dishwasher. Turned water on and checked for leaks. Turned power back on and ran a cycle of dishes to wash....all went well. If the knuckle was on so tight the job would have only taken about 40 min at best.

The repair itself was simple. I replaced the broken plastic pulley and the cable attached to the door and spring because one end was bent. I also had to remove the fitting that held the pulley in place. In order to access the spring, I had to pull the dishwasher way out and that required disconnecting the water supply, the drain tube, and the electrical wiring! Then I had to reconnect everything. So although the repair took less than 30 minutes, the rest of the work took a couple hours.

Open dishwasher and remove the bottom spray wheel, filter, and unscrew the mounting bracket to release the pump connector below the bottom of the unit. Remove mounting screws at top front of dishwasher and carefully slide the unit out; you may have to pry side panels inward with a flat screwdriver in order to get the dishwasher past any cabinetry. Be careful not to pull the dishwasher too far out as the water supply and drain hoses could be damaged. Unplug the unit. Turn unit sideways and tip over onto its' back. At this point, the sump will have to be removed using a nut-driver and/or socket set. This will open access to remove the old pump connector. Replace the old connector with the new connector, and reassemble the sump, connecting and firmly tightening all connectors. Tip unit upright. Screw mounting bracket back into the bottom of the dishwasher and put the remaining parts back. Before pushing the unit back into it's nook, I advise running a quick cycle just to make sure there is no leakage. If there is no leakage, put the unit back, tighten the mounting screws and you're done.