PDWT300V00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the door gasket and cleaned the track prior to installing the new gasket. The online repair instructions didn't mention a thin wire that is stored at the bottom of the tub near the door and is used to hold the ends of the gasket in place. Gently remove the ends of the gasket from the wire prior to pulling the entire gasket out of the machine track.

I began to notice a loud grinding sound when my dishwasher blower motor kicked in (mostly at the end of the entire washing cycle). It was obvious where the noise was coming from (upper left side of door). Ordered blower motor / fan and replaced it. Problem solved! When taking the front panel off, be very aware of all screws. There is a screw on the right side of the door that screws inward. It holds the control unit. If not removed, the control unit screw hole will break off and it will be difficult for you to secure the control unit. Be aware that there are two small screws that point UP below the front panel. Be sure to remove those too. Take pictures of the wires before disconnecting from the control unit. It's fairly obvious, but cheap insurance if needed when reassembling. The fan motor in the upper left of the panel. There are a large gray venting unit above it. You will need to remove that unit in order to expose the screws to remove the fan motor. Once removed, replace the fan motor and work backwards to connect everything again. Possibly take a few moments to clean the inside of your door panel to remove any hard water build up from any moisture that leaked into your door panel. Hope this helps.

look at neww part first then r&r

I unscrewed the screws in the door of the dishwasher. Then pulled the inside part of the door up and unscrewed the 6 screws that held the dispenser. I am not sure the correct name of the part but it is on the backside of the dispenser and is red and it is where the wires connect to it, that was probably the most difficult part, disconnecting the plastic covers from the old dispenser. I used a butter knife to pop it out and then was able to get a better grip to pull them off. I pushed the wires on the new red thing and then put the new dispenser in place. You have to make sure that the dispenser is in the right spot and the brace on the underside of the inside part of the door, is in the correct place, otherwise, you will have a leak. Which is what happened to me. I just unscrewed and opened it again and screwed the screws tighter and it was fine.

I examined how the old gasket was attached before removing it. I then pushed in the new gasket needing no tools. There has been no water leakage since.

I disconnected the pipes to the inlet valve. I removed the bolts from the bracket holding the valve. I tried to use two wrenches to remove the brass angle pipe thingie off the bottom of the old valve. I then beat on it with a hammer, then I just threw it against the basement floor till it came off. I would recommend getting a new brass angle pipe thingie before you start.

Cut power and water flow to the appliance. Laid appliance on its side, removed the electrical lead from the motor. Remove the mount from the back of the motor and loosened the two clamps- one to the sump and one to the discharge tube. Removed and replaced the pump/motor assy. with the new one, reinstalled the clamps, rear mount and electrical lead. Righted the unit and fired it up. Worked fine.

Removed the holding screws around the edges; removed and replaced the soap container; reconnected the electrical leads, and done... Very simple fix. But it does get a little tricky since the door is spring loaded. NOTE: THERE ARE SCREWS AT THE BOTTOM THAT IS NOT OBVIOUS.

simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.

Twisted new one in place of old. Disappointed that there was a melting issue at all. Need to investigate problem.

Had purchased SPRING DOOR, CABLE ASM, and HINGE CABLE PULLEY prior to starting repair, as I did not know which piece had failed. Cable assembly was the culprit. SPRING is heavy duty steel, HINGE CABLE PULLEY is nylon, and CABLE ASM (assembly) is braided steel with a steel plate at one end that ties into spring and an inadequate nylon piece that ties into the steel hook on the door. The nylon piece failed through tearing open. REPAIR STEPS: 1. Removed bottom cover plate at front. Two hex head nuts. Nut driver works best but Phillips head screw slots are on nuts. 2. Removed dime-sized cover plates located on either side of main unit where door seals when it is closed. Used Phillips head screwdriver to remove screws that are screwed into cabinets flanking dishwasher. Magnetic tip will help keep you from losing these between dishwasher and cabinet as they are too short to project through the access hole when fully unscrewed. 3. Lowered appliance feet using adjustable pliers. Slip wrench would probably work but six-sided appliance feet are slippery. 4. Loosened drain hose clamp from disposal and removed drain hose. 5. Shut off water line to dishwasher (under sink) and disconnected water line with slip wrench. Steps 4 and 5 were done to give me the slack I needed to pull dishwasher out from cavity far enough to access the side where the repairs were to be made. You may or may not need to do that--try pulling dishwasher out first and see how far it will go. 6. Looked at the problem, which was failed cable assembly. 7. Removed nylon Hinge Cable Pullley with nut driver. This allows cable removal. 8. Put cable back into place (loose) and then replaced Hinge Cable Pulley. 9. Reattached cable to spring on back end and door hook on front end. 10. Pushed dishwasher back into position. 11. Raised appliance feet to proper height. 12. Reinstalled side screws that hold dishwasher against cabinetry. 13. Replaced small screw cover plates. 14. Reattached drain line to disposal. 15. Reattached water line. 16. Turned water on and checked for leaks. 17. Reattached bottom cover plate to front of dishwasher.

Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.

The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.

Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.

Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.

That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.

The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.

Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.

I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.

Just have a good look at how the original is installed before removing, then clean the area. The new one was a breeze to install, just line it up and pop it in.

Open the door and go along entire edge of door and use Philipps to unscrew the front panel of the door from the inside panel of the door. Once unscrewed open carefully. There are screws in the dispenser cup. Undo those and then there are two plugs to be undone. There is also the main black computer component that has to be unplugged from its cord. Just remove and screw everything back the way it was. This was my first time and I am a female age 58 years old. It was simple. If I had to do it again I could do it in less than half the time.

NOTE I have classified this is a DIFFICULT JOB, but NOT because of the mechanics involved [including the electrical connectors UN-plugging and re-plugging, BUT DUE to the ANALYSIS you need to do to determine whether the SOAP DISH PART or the CONTROLLER is at fault. And this ANALYSIS will probably require you to get into the DISHWASHER DOOR twice. Once to do the analysis and then again to replace whatever part you target. Being you will want to continue to use the DISHWASHER by manually dropping the soap door [or just soap] at the appropriate time in the cycle, while awaiting the new part, which means you have re-button up the door and take it apart again when the new part arrives. . Before starting, view PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the SOAP DISPENSER, but ignore THE STEPS OF REMOVING AND REPLACING THE SOAP DISPENSER.PART, at this time. The analysis starts with MANUALLY trying to activate the mechanical soap door release on the back of the mounted SOAP DISPENSER, with the soap door closed. It should take only ounces of downward pressure [towards the door hinge] on the vertical plastic piece in a channel near the center of the dispenser, to release the soap door. Next if you have access to an OHM METER {or MULTIMETER} or a DC POWER SUPPLY [to test the the activation of the door release] pull the two connectors on the SOAP DISH SOLENOID [a set pointed pliers will be helpful, as outlined in the VIDEO]. If measuring the SOLENOID's resistance it should read roughly 1800 OHMS. If using a DC POWER SUPPLY, you will probably need at least 25 volts DC to trigger the SOLENOID [NOTE I do not have a variable DC POWER SUPPLY to check it out nor do I know the voltage that the DISHWASHER uses]. Do not bother to measure the resistance of CONTROLLER's driving circuitry [the two wires having connectors], as it will read INFINITY, regardless of whether GOOD or BAD, The CONTROLLER apparently uses a RELAY on this circuit, as opposed to some kind of solid state switch. Replug the SOLENOID connectors. Re-buttoned up the DISHWASHER as shown in the VIDEO, assuming you are going to continue using it If you determine no problems in the above tests, then consider it a CONTROLLER pro0blem and you will need to order one. Otherwise you should have found indications of a SOAP DISPENSER PROBLEM. . When the replacement part arrives and you ready to install it, refer again to PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the Soap Dish Dispenser for a refresher Following the VIDEO completely, if you replacing the DISPENSER. If you are replacing the CONTROLLER, once inside the DOOR, you will need to remove around 6 individual electrical connectors [before doing ANYTHING REMOVE POWER from the DISHWASHER [as instructed in the VIDEO}. These connectors [all but any single wire connectors] are designed to be plugged only one specific way, so when re-plugging NEVER FORCE a connection, The best way to make sure you do not get confused, take a picture of all the connectors -OR- make notes on the looks and orientation of each multi-wire connector. There is one mounting screw on right side of the CONTROLLER. When installing the new CONTROLLER there are mounting EARS on the left side that are first engaged by having the CONTROLLER tilted up on the right side. Replace the mounting screw. Replugged all the connectors using whatever guide you made. Proceed to put the DOOR back together as outlined in the VIDEO.