PDT750SSF0SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I determined the guide rail on one side had broke when the white plastic bearings fell out of their track. I decided to replace both sides at the same time, so I ordered 2. They arrived quickly and I installed them and placed the middle rack back into the dishwasher. Went together fairly easily. I took pictures before removing the guides from the rack, so I would remember how to put the new ones back one when they arrived. Very happy with this DIY repair that easily would have taken much longer and would have been way more expensive! Thank you!

Took out the old and swapped out the parts from the old one and put them on the new rack. Looks great and works great.

I replaced the Flood Switch Part Number: WD21X10519.
I found that be removing the bottom front cover under dishwasher door, there was a small black plastic clamp holding up the wiring cable. By disconnecting the clamp, it gave me a few more inching of wire inside the machine, which made disconnecting old flood switch easier. It also help in installing the new flood switch. Then finally i reinstall the clamp cable under the machine to finish the job.

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.

I removed the old roller wheels and the new roller wheels snapped together and the simple instructions made the repair quick and simple..

The part did not fit at all but not worth it to me to return it. The part I need is about 20 inches in length and the one sent was about 10 inches. I will simply call for this dishwasher to be repaired or replaced.

Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good
Researched symptoms on YouTube
Removed and inspected float switch part
Ordered and replaced part.

Followed directions on YouTube

Going by another review on this site, I used a 1/4" nut driver to remove the 2 hex head screws at the base of the flood switch. I used a clothespin/bag clip to hold harness out of the hole when disconnecting the flood switch. It was easy to plug in new switch. I cleaned out the base where the O-ring goes to make sure it will seal properly. Had already changed out the heating element and the tub gasket but still had issue with the dishes not drying in the upper rack. Another review here did bring up the flood switch as possible problem so I changed it. This solved the issue. So the primary problem was the flood switch. Very thankful for your Q&A section for the parts.

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...

Installed new heater by pulling unit out of it’s cubby hole. Was able to gain access to the nuts that hold it down and make the seal, as well as the electrical connections. Re-installed. Helpful if you remove both dish baskets and utencil basket for access when installing heater.

Parts diagram shows Striker can be popped out with screwdriver. Not true. It has a screw bolting it internally. Impossible to get to unless you disassemble the entire door. We took a power drill and small drill bit and bore it out like a cavity in a tooth. Needle nose pliers to extract the screw. Pretend your a dentist. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Replacement fit tight. A+

The part is held in with two plastic clips, which are easy to unclip. The part needed to be slightly flexed to release it and the new part went in the same way the old one came off. One issue: The replacement part had one extra row of tines that encroached on the silverware basket. As it turned out, one tine fit between basket sections and the other fit through the hole in the bottom of the basket and it doesn't interfere with utensils so it turned out not to be a problem.

First, drain as much water as possible using a shop vac or siphon. Unscrew two plastic lugs and food screen to release the metal *disk* found inside the dishwasher at the bottom. Then, remove the grey retainer ring found under the food screen.
Using the nut driver, remove two screws from the white plastic retainer ring at bottom the flood switch.
I used pliers to grip the ring to take it out.
**Dry everything in the "well" where the flood switch sits.**
Now, remove the bottom front cosmetic panel. This exposes the underside of the appliance. Locate the flood switch wire underneath and gently pull down the small black plastic tab which holds the wires in place. This allows more movement to make your job a little easier!
Pull up on the flood switch and simply unplug it and swap in your new switch! Replace everything as you found it, don't over-tighten your screws, and make your kids load that sucker! Hope this helps, and have a beautiful day!

the part is OEM and fits like a glove. No worries. There is a minor variation in design and is not like for like design but fits exactly per specs and works. I have been looking for this part for years now. Thank you for PS for maintaining the inventory.
PS12743260Manufacturer Part Number WD28X26099