GLD5666V15SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

followed the video step by step which was very well expalined and was able to complete the install

Attached the drain hose to the dishwasher pump and to the sink pipes and I was done.

It couldn't have been easier. I installed the new wheels in seconds and the rack glides as perfectly as the day it was installed 11 years ago! Perfection! Your stellar website made it so easy to find the correct parts. BRAVO!!!!! I laughed! I cried! I am so ECSTATIC!!!!!

Ordered most likely part...water inlet valve.

1. Turn off water supply.
2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the
dishwasher.
3. Remove hose to supply valve.
4. Take electrical plug off old valve.
5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of
the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket.
6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the
inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the
rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher.
7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the
bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and
bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose.
8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet
hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip.
9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp
with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this
time.
10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose
connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick
plate.

Removed the unit from under counter and placed it with the door side down. Removed clamps/bands from the outlets on the sump and removed screws that attached sump to dishwasher tub. Reversed the process with the new sump and positioned the dishwasher unt=der the cabinet. Next step was to remove the arm and cover parts to the sump, then removed the old upper neck portion that stuck to a strainer. Then aligned the strainer to connect to the small neck of the sump and replaced items in the order from which they were removed.

The kit came with the anchors and the riollers for the bottom shelf. They clipped right on! Dishwasher cleans great now!

Watched online video, repaired myself in under 10 minutes.
Easy fix with video instructions

Pulled off old rollers and snapped on new ones. Never easier!

delivery of part was very quick, and my husband was able to remove the old part and install the new in about 10 minutes. No service call; no new rack; just a washer that is easy to use again.

Ordered a new tub gasket and, although the gasket went on backorder for two weeks, the repair itself was extremely easy requiring no tools at all!

First removed the eight philips head screws that hold the outside bottom door cover, to get access to the module. Then removed the two wires and the ten screws holding the module in place. Put the new module back in, reconnected the wires, and re-tighten everything. Did not have to use the bracket and cap.

1. Troubleshoot: Unplug, check power at outlet (OK), disassemble front door (phillips screws) from inside, remove safety switch cover to check operation (OK), remove metal shield over ckt board. Noticed burned and separated transformer leads. No repair possible, ordered new board(s), arrived promptly. 2. Replace: Piece of cake--remember to check for jumpers, had to remove one from old board and put it on the new one.

Ordered drain pump kit (GE part # 325). When it came it looked different from the pictures in the manual and what was ordered. Thought I was going to have to retrofit pump. Looked at ordering a drain kit from another source, which I did. When that came it was exactly the same as the one I ordered from Part Select. I returned the other pump.
Looking at the parts diagram, I discovered the replacement pump (part # 325 ordered) was combined with part # 327 which is why it looked different. I went ahead with the replacement, pulling out the pump and the connecting tubing, part # 327. The replacement pump fit exactly in place, replacing the pump and tubing. I put the dishwashing machine back together and it works great.
Bench tested the old pump and it worked. It must have had a food ball caught in the impeller, inhibiting flow. Next time I'll check all the parts for grease and food balls before ordering new parts..

changed the door gasket no tools,just pulled out the old,lined up the dot (printed on gasket)on the new and started at the top pushed in the new took five minute,the short bottom door seal required a phillips head screwdriver to remove the inside door screws(six screws) the two on the bottom are different they attach to the door hinge and are machine thread the other four are coarse thread.lifted off the panel slide off the old(pay attention to which way the curve goes) slide on the new replaced the panel put in the six screws.the job is done! the door will be tight to close but will be easier after a few uses.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.