GLD4500V00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

First I removed the 8 screws on the interior side of the door that holds the plastic inner-face to the door assembly. This allowed me to easily pry the inner face away from the outer face which exposed the latch assembly.

The broken latch practically fell out making it very easy to work the new one into place.

I replaced the 8 screws, closed the door until I heard it latch and then squeezed the handle and was rewarded with a very satisfying sound and feel as the door popped open without a hitch.

I know a repairman would have cost me a minimum of $75 plus a hefty price for the part.

We had to replace the soap dispenser. My husband is not very handy & this was a snap. You take off the front panel (cover) of the sishwasher & simply unscrew the old one & screw in the new one. I probably could have done it myself.

Very easy! Removed 4 screws that was holding the valve to the bracket. Placed bracket over water inlet line. Attached copper threaded coupling with pliers.Screwed valved on to the coupling. Attached bracket to the valve with 4 screws. Reattached water line. Attached bracket to frame of dishwaser. Put kickplate back on and done!

replaced new wheels

I had a slow leak from vicinity of sump. I replaced sump and pump connector as these were only likely sources of leak based on parts select history. Turns out plastic tub had a fine crack. The crack was directly under the heating element which had melted the plastic and over time created this small crack that was found by a repair guy immediately. I even suspected a tub leak and searched for one but being directly under the element made it invisible to me and in an area I did not suspect (front). Oh well - also learned GE charges $100. to come to my house, show me a crack, and leave (I repaired it with epoxy).

Parts were easy to find, easy to order and arrived prior to the advertised delivery date. Instructions for replacement were easy to understand and in about 10 minutes the old part was removed, and the new one installed. thanks for your prompt and efficient company.

Remove bottom articulating sprayer and water fittings. Remove and replace filter

hubby had no prob replacing the new part!!YEA!!dishes are clean again!

just snapped the new part in. couldn't have been easier

Remove top rack stops, slide out upper rack from rack railing, turn over upper rack and attach spray arm using spray arm bearing and screw. Reassemble in reverse order.

Removed screws that held dishwasher under cabinet...pulled out DW...removed old part...replaced with new....easier than falling off a stump.

After reading other customer responses I decided to attempt the repair myself. After pulling out dishwasher I turned it on it's side and prodeeded to remove the 3 screws holding it in place. FIFTEEN minutes later I pushed it back into position and it has performed like new for the past month. Comparing parts and service I saved about $200.00 on this self repair. I would not hesitate to undertake another repair after my experience.

Removed the holding screws around the edges; removed and replaced the soap container; reconnected the electrical leads, and done... Very simple fix. But it does get a little tricky since the door is spring loaded. NOTE: THERE ARE SCREWS AT THE BOTTOM THAT IS NOT OBVIOUS.

Remove the door panel screws on the inside door frame. You only need to remove as many as needed to remove the larger bottom panel. The other screws will remove the upper button panel and this is not necassary. Unplug the Detergent Dispenser (it may take some force, and unscrew the dispencer. Replace with the new one, screw back in place, and reattatch the plug. Now replace the door panel and screw it back in place. This is all very simple. The only problem I encountered was that the only dispenser had built up so much detergent residue around its base, that it had distorted the plastic around it. This caused the new dispense to not sit flush all the way around, and the dishwasher leaked into the door on its first cycle. Simply filling the gap with 100% silicon caulk has fixed the problem. Washes like new.

I disconnected the pipes to the inlet valve. I removed the bolts from the bracket holding the valve. I tried to use two wrenches to remove the brass angle pipe thingie off the bottom of the old valve. I then beat on it with a hammer, then I just threw it against the basement floor till it came off. I would recommend getting a new brass angle pipe thingie before you start.