GLD4500V00CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I unscrewed the screws in the door of the dishwasher. Then pulled the inside part of the door up and unscrewed the 6 screws that held the dispenser. I am not sure the correct name of the part but it is on the backside of the dispenser and is red and it is where the wires connect to it, that was probably the most difficult part, disconnecting the plastic covers from the old dispenser. I used a butter knife to pop it out and then was able to get a better grip to pull them off. I pushed the wires on the new red thing and then put the new dispenser in place. You have to make sure that the dispenser is in the right spot and the brace on the underside of the inside part of the door, is in the correct place, otherwise, you will have a leak. Which is what happened to me. I just unscrewed and opened it again and screwed the screws tighter and it was fine.

Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.

The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.

Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.

Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.

That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.

The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.

Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.

I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.

Removed the holding screws around the edges; removed and replaced the soap container; reconnected the electrical leads, and done... Very simple fix. But it does get a little tricky since the door is spring loaded. NOTE: THERE ARE SCREWS AT THE BOTTOM THAT IS NOT OBVIOUS.

I disconnected the pipes to the inlet valve. I removed the bolts from the bracket holding the valve. I tried to use two wrenches to remove the brass angle pipe thingie off the bottom of the old valve. I then beat on it with a hammer, then I just threw it against the basement floor till it came off. I would recommend getting a new brass angle pipe thingie before you start.

Cut power and water flow to the appliance. Laid appliance on its side, removed the electrical lead from the motor. Remove the mount from the back of the motor and loosened the two clamps- one to the sump and one to the discharge tube. Removed and replaced the pump/motor assy. with the new one, reinstalled the clamps, rear mount and electrical lead. Righted the unit and fired it up. Worked fine.

Easily screwed on this part and used it for the door of the dishwasher to properly open and close

Open dishwasher. Remove the screws on plastic cover of door. To cover off back of plunger replaced with new one. Reinstalled screws in door and everything worked

simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.

look at neww part first then r&r

I carefully read over comments from other people's experience first. I removed all the screws from the inside panel and had several heavy books to weigh down the door. This allowed me to remove the white inside panel, turn it to get easy access to the seal at the bottom. All that was necessary was to clean the area of builted up soap etc, start pulling old seal off from one side and at the same time insert the new seal in same track and groove, being careful to have the new seal lined up in the same manner as the old. The whole process was rather simple and required very little effort.

pulled switches flicked leaver worked when itwanted to and not every time. I removed then shorted then rechecked everthing worked. got on line ordered parts good price fast service fixed 30 min when they came in saved money.Thank God! 20.00 fix instead of 200.00 +

Removed the screws holding the inner door panel from the door. I just flipped it over and used the weight of the removed panel to hold down the spring loaded door. I took note of the position of the old seal and then removed it. I cleaned away all of the accumulated soap residue. The new seal was positioned by just sliding it into place. I flipped the door panel over and replaced all of the attaching screws. Don't try to press the new seal into place. Slide it onto the lip of the door panel.

Just pop them in and you are done, less than a minute to install both lids.

I ordered it online and g0t it the next day. I found out why so fast. The parts select store was 3 miles from my house and I paid $7. 50 To have it delivered by fedex. I opened the box and set it in the dishwasher. I hope this helps someone. It did me.

It was amazingly easy repair. I just order the correct parts from “PartSelect” and installed them and done. It was fixed.