GHDT158V60ES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Twisted new one in place of old. Disappointed that there was a melting issue at all. Need to investigate problem.

Removed old basket, put in recycle bin, placed new basket in dish washer. The damage to the original basket was my fault. I now know not to drop heavy knives point down into the basket.

Took old one out, put new one in in less than 20 seconds!

opened the dishwasher .............removed the old and slid in the new ...then attached by dropping in the utensil compartment.....piece of cake

I just ordered another one of the wheel rack and it was that easy. No tool required.

Just removed the prior rack and put the new one in. Much improved design on the wheels and rack seems of better material as well. The rack does not have as many holders as the prior rack dishes and pans do not fit as well.

I received the part very quickly. I threw away the old rack and put the new one in it's place. No tools or instructions were necessary. The new rack had all of the wheels and combs included. I did not have to purchase them separately. This is a much better designed part than the original rack. The combs are spread differently to better support plates, and the wheels are combined and enclosed to better support the rack. Also, I feel that this was a good price. Thank you!

Middle arm bearing used a pair of pliers to unscrew the screw and to re-screw with new bearing in place. NO did not have to disconnect the arm. Lower arm turn counter clockwise to remove (comes off very easy) stick needle nose straight down opening and remove bearing. Use needle nose to place new bearing.

Installed new rack assembly and it works fine. Thanks

Opened dishwasher after it completed a wash cycle. Found the rinse dispenser cap had come off during the wash and melted on the heating coil at the bottom of the machine. Pulled cap off of coil, made sure coil was not disturbed. Looked in various sites for cap. Finally found this site where I didn't need to order the whole mechanism and could order just the cap. Received the cap, screwed into the dispenser, fixed. The only problem I had was that there were two possible caps so I picked the one that was the same color as the original one. Project completed. Thanks

removed original rack, inserted replacement.

Simply took out the broken rack and inserted the new one.

Water was leaking from under refer next to installed under counter dishwasher. Once determined to be dishwasher not refer I removed dishwasher toe place was able to see dripping inlet solenoid valve. I had to disconnect 11V power, shut off inlet water, disconnect inlet water house and remove dishwasher from under counter. Once dishwasher was in center of kitchen I flipped it upside down and removed the electric solenoid inlet valve. Removing the valve took one wrench to remove inlet hose then two wrenches to remove 90 degree brass fitting and another to hold solenoid. I used a nut drive to remove two screws that released the solenoid from the dishwasher frame. I used teflon tape to reattached the 90 degree brass fitting and inlet hose.

The tub gasket is very easy to replace. First I pulled out the old gasket then using the center marking on the new gasket, I centered the gasket at the top then pushed the gasket into the track. At the bottom I reused the wire that holds the two ends in place making sure I attached the separation wire in the same configuration as with the old one. I had another leaking problem with the seal on the bottom of the door. GE does not sell a repair seal for the door bottom and a new inner door must be purchased at around $200. I made that repair using an old bicycle inner tube. I cut the tube into a one inch strip and epoxyed the strip to the tub where the door meets the tub.. Worked perfectly!

After determining that the leak was coming from the sump connector, I had to completely remove the unit from the counter. After removing all the parts in the wash cabinet (wash arms,conduit,fine,course and sump filters),the sump connector nut was revealed which I loosened, but did not remove, with a channel lock plier. The unit was then placed up-side down where I then loosened all the worm clamps that attached the drain motor,pump,and turbidity sensor to the sump and sump connector.then I removed the brackets that braced the pump to the washer body and removed the pump.at this point,you should be able to remove the drain motor and turbidity sensor from the sump and remove the sump from the washer. You should also be able to remove the connector as well.Both these items are made of some type of rubber which seems to deteriorate from the soap which was caked all over them in my case. Just reverse the above process to re-install everthing. I didn't find this job terribly difficult and it was certainly better than spending hundreds replacing the unit.