GHDT158V60ES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

It was a very simple replacement. I took the old one out and rolled the new one in. It took less than 5 minutes!

Easiest repair ever. My new rack arrived in three days, opened the box and slid it in. Better quality than the original. Excellent service!

went online to parts select. Looked at parts that could be leaking. Thought it was the sump. Purchased the sump and the pump connector. Almost bought the adaptor pump assembly, but it was $29.00. Parts arrived in about 2 days. Turned off water and power to dishwasher. Disconnected the copper water line. Hardest part was getting the dishwasher out of space. Once out, layed it on it's side. Parts held together with clamps. Took it apart like a puzzle. Replaced the parts, tightened the clamps. Pump connector hard to unscrew. Got a good hand grip on it and turned it loose. Sump did have a hole in it. Put everything back together. water, electric, etc. Turned it on and it was leaking. Leak coming from the adaptor pump assembly. Couldn't wait 2 more days.Found part at a local parts store for $40.00. Was able to change it by reaching underneath and not pulling dishwasher out again. All three parts needed to be changed. Dishwasher now working fine. If your leaking underneath and taking out the dishwasher change those 3 parts.

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

Pull out the old, died gasket. Clean out track that holds gasket. insert new gasket.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

Everything went fine until the reattachment of the spring loaded hinges. They have to be reattached with the door in the almost closed position. Not impossible.

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

I repaired by replacing both inner rails.
I found that removing an inner rail from the rack is difficult. It can be done with strong fingers separating the tabs of a front Y hook after releasing the rear hook so the rack can slide off the horizontal locator rods. It helps to apply liquid soap to the old inner rails Y clips to reduce friction.
Clean the outer rails thoroughly with a brush and liquid cleaner so the rails can engage
Inserting the inner rails into the outer rails is difficult when they are already attached to the rack. It's much easier to insert the rails independently of the rack. Push the outer rails into the inner rails while applying force to keep them engaged

Attach the rack to the rails by inserting the long rear horizontal rods of the rack into the rear clips of the rail.
Assure the tabs in the rear clips are locked
Again, it helps to apply liquid soap to the new inner rail Y clips to reduce friction
Hold the rails in place and pull the rack forward to engage the front rails with Y clips to the shorter front horizontal rods of the rack.
Force them together to spread the Y clips and lock the rails into them.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

Slid it in. Very easy and the replacement part is built better than the original part.

Replaced impeller

I simply removed the bad part and reversed the process. It was very easy and a 12 year old could do it. Thanks for the online tips and recommendations. You saved me over 400.00 which is what a new unit would run. Plus installation. Many Thanks.

Popped in the new one and done!!!