GHDT158V60ES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.

The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.

I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.

You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).

You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.

You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.

Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.

Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!

Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)

Removed the bottom tray, it just pulls straight out, once the tray was removed, the bottom revolving sprayer just lifts right off. Under this sprayer is a self-cleaning filter. There is a plastic piece that screws the filter into place, this part unscrewed easily by hand. Once unscrewed, the filter lifted straight up. I then reversed the process with the new filter and the problem was solved. Note: The old filter was full of sand and grime.

I gently removed the old gasket and replaced it with no problem. The part just pushes into a channel in the washer side.

Disconnected electrics,plumbing, and removed DW.
Replaced sump inlet by removing about four clamps.
The inlet was partially dissolved. I think what lead to this is a partial clog, of broken glass and plastic. DW works fine.

I noticed the circulation pump was not operating. If I turned the motor with a screw driver it would start running. I replaced the pump and now the dishwasher works like new. Very easy to replace the pump but you will have to pull out the dishwasher and turn on its back. I was able to confirm the circulation pump was the problem by observing the motor not running when it should but it would run once I turned the inside motor parts(be careful!). I also had to replace the center sprayer which again was very easy.

First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Turned power off, removed dishwasher, tipped on side, removed and installed pump asym, reinstalled

replaced it

Removed Dishwasher, inverted it and replaced the sump housing. There are 2 screws mounting the top of the dishwasher to the counter, a water connection and the electrical connection. Remember to turn the water off and the electricity off. Slide the DW out on carpet. Carried it to the garage to affect the repair. Reinstalled the dishwasher. Most difficult part of this is that the water hose is really short. I used a 6ft extension so that the next time I have to pull this out it will be easier.

Exactly as described by a previous reviewer. I pulled out the old rack, put in the new rack and just moved over the cutlery rack.

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.

This repair applies to the right and left side upper slide rails for the upper dish rack, GE part number WD30X10039, (they are identical for each side) as used in GE dishwasher PDWT100V00BB.

No tools are required. A flashlight will come in handy and a wet rag or old towel may be useful to clean the DW interior while everything is apart.

1. Remove the upper dish rack from the old rails by sliding the rack forward as far as it will go and unclip the small horizontal locator rods on the dish rack (there are two on each side of the rack) from the corresponding plastic clips on both rails (mine had already broken so I skipped this step).

2. It is not necessary to remove any of the plastic end caps or clips to remove the old rails. Instead, look for a small (1/2 inches long) white lever about halfway along the inside of each the old rails (they face into the interior of the dishwasher). They will not be removed-they will retain the new rails. This is where the flashlight is helpful.

3. Push the left lever down and the right lever up (because the rails are identical but flipped) while pulling the rails forward. The rails should slide out. Be careful that the small plastic ball bearings on the innermost part of the old rails don't escape from their races. My DW was older and evidently he balls had deteriorated to the point that they no longer fit in their races. They went everywhere.

4. At this point, it may be worthwhile to clean the tracks still inside the DW where the new rails will go to remove accumulated gunk so that the new rails will slide as new.

5. Slide the new rails into the left and right tracks, keeping the same orientation as with the old rails. They should slide on easily without the necessity to pushing the levers again-the levers should simply move out of the way and then return to lock the new rails into place. It may take one or two tries to align the rails properly on the existing tracks, but once this is done the new rails should slide on easily.

I may have made this sound more difficult than it really is. It's fairly easy, but I couldn't find a video online for this particular repair and wanted to provide as much detail as possible. Good luck!