GDWT308V55WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Just pulled out the old basket and put in the new one. . Don't know the holes got into the basket. . .

Simply took out the broken rack and inserted the new one.

I disconnected the pipes to the inlet valve. I removed the bolts from the bracket holding the valve. I tried to use two wrenches to remove the brass angle pipe thingie off the bottom of the old valve. I then beat on it with a hammer, then I just threw it against the basement floor till it came off. I would recommend getting a new brass angle pipe thingie before you start.

Remove the door panel screws on the inside door frame. You only need to remove as many as needed to remove the larger bottom panel. The other screws will remove the upper button panel and this is not necassary. Unplug the Detergent Dispenser (it may take some force, and unscrew the dispencer. Replace with the new one, screw back in place, and reattatch the plug. Now replace the door panel and screw it back in place. This is all very simple. The only problem I encountered was that the only dispenser had built up so much detergent residue around its base, that it had distorted the plastic around it. This caused the new dispense to not sit flush all the way around, and the dishwasher leaked into the door on its first cycle. Simply filling the gap with 100% silicon caulk has fixed the problem. Washes like new.

I examined how the old gasket was attached before removing it. I then pushed in the new gasket needing no tools. There has been no water leakage since.

I unscrewed the screws in the door of the dishwasher. Then pulled the inside part of the door up and unscrewed the 6 screws that held the dispenser. I am not sure the correct name of the part but it is on the backside of the dispenser and is red and it is where the wires connect to it, that was probably the most difficult part, disconnecting the plastic covers from the old dispenser. I used a butter knife to pop it out and then was able to get a better grip to pull them off. I pushed the wires on the new red thing and then put the new dispenser in place. You have to make sure that the dispenser is in the right spot and the brace on the underside of the inside part of the door, is in the correct place, otherwise, you will have a leak. Which is what happened to me. I just unscrewed and opened it again and screwed the screws tighter and it was fine.

Repairs do not get any easier than this. Remove 12 screws to disassemble door panel (be careful not to let front panel of assembly to drop or bend when screws release it). Remove 6 screws to remove old detergent dispenser. Unplug cable from old dispenser. Connect cable to new dispenser. Install new dispenser into door with 6 screws and then reassemble door panel with 12 screws making sure to keep all wiring free from pressure points.

Open the door and go along entire edge of door and use Philipps to unscrew the front panel of the door from the inside panel of the door. Once unscrewed open carefully. There are screws in the dispenser cup. Undo those and then there are two plugs to be undone. There is also the main black computer component that has to be unplugged from its cord. Just remove and screw everything back the way it was. This was my first time and I am a female age 58 years old. It was simple. If I had to do it again I could do it in less than half the time.

Removed the holding screws around the edges; removed and replaced the soap container; reconnected the electrical leads, and done... Very simple fix. But it does get a little tricky since the door is spring loaded. NOTE: THERE ARE SCREWS AT THE BOTTOM THAT IS NOT OBVIOUS.

After reading other customer responses I decided to attempt the repair myself. After pulling out dishwasher I turned it on it's side and prodeeded to remove the 3 screws holding it in place. FIFTEEN minutes later I pushed it back into position and it has performed like new for the past month. Comparing parts and service I saved about $200.00 on this self repair. I would not hesitate to undertake another repair after my experience.

Pulled out the old gasket and replaced with the new gasket. Inserted the steel spring clip into the ends of the gasket. Repair complete.

Just have a good look at how the original is installed before removing, then clean the area. The new one was a breeze to install, just line it up and pop it in.

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

NOTE I have classified this is a DIFFICULT JOB, but NOT because of the mechanics involved [including the electrical connectors UN-plugging and re-plugging, BUT DUE to the ANALYSIS you need to do to determine whether the SOAP DISH PART or the CONTROLLER is at fault. And this ANALYSIS will probably require you to get into the DISHWASHER DOOR twice. Once to do the analysis and then again to replace whatever part you target. Being you will want to continue to use the DISHWASHER by manually dropping the soap door [or just soap] at the appropriate time in the cycle, while awaiting the new part, which means you have re-button up the door and take it apart again when the new part arrives. . Before starting, view PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the SOAP DISPENSER, but ignore THE STEPS OF REMOVING AND REPLACING THE SOAP DISPENSER.PART, at this time. The analysis starts with MANUALLY trying to activate the mechanical soap door release on the back of the mounted SOAP DISPENSER, with the soap door closed. It should take only ounces of downward pressure [towards the door hinge] on the vertical plastic piece in a channel near the center of the dispenser, to release the soap door. Next if you have access to an OHM METER {or MULTIMETER} or a DC POWER SUPPLY [to test the the activation of the door release] pull the two connectors on the SOAP DISH SOLENOID [a set pointed pliers will be helpful, as outlined in the VIDEO]. If measuring the SOLENOID's resistance it should read roughly 1800 OHMS. If using a DC POWER SUPPLY, you will probably need at least 25 volts DC to trigger the SOLENOID [NOTE I do not have a variable DC POWER SUPPLY to check it out nor do I know the voltage that the DISHWASHER uses]. Do not bother to measure the resistance of CONTROLLER's driving circuitry [the two wires having connectors], as it will read INFINITY, regardless of whether GOOD or BAD, The CONTROLLER apparently uses a RELAY on this circuit, as opposed to some kind of solid state switch. Replug the SOLENOID connectors. Re-buttoned up the DISHWASHER as shown in the VIDEO, assuming you are going to continue using it If you determine no problems in the above tests, then consider it a CONTROLLER pro0blem and you will need to order one. Otherwise you should have found indications of a SOAP DISPENSER PROBLEM. . When the replacement part arrives and you ready to install it, refer again to PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the Soap Dish Dispenser for a refresher Following the VIDEO completely, if you replacing the DISPENSER. If you are replacing the CONTROLLER, once inside the DOOR, you will need to remove around 6 individual electrical connectors [before doing ANYTHING REMOVE POWER from the DISHWASHER [as instructed in the VIDEO}. These connectors [all but any single wire connectors] are designed to be plugged only one specific way, so when re-plugging NEVER FORCE a connection, The best way to make sure you do not get confused, take a picture of all the connectors -OR- make notes on the looks and orientation of each multi-wire connector. There is one mounting screw on right side of the CONTROLLER. When installing the new CONTROLLER there are mounting EARS on the left side that are first engaged by having the CONTROLLER tilted up on the right side. Replace the mounting screw. Replugged all the connectors using whatever guide you made. Proceed to put the DOOR back together as outlined in the VIDEO.

On the Model PDW9880, there are about 14 screws to be removed. I used a large Phillips driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. You cannot use a cordless drill driver for about 10 of the screws unless you have a long bit, as the 10 screws are so close to the body of the dishwasher door that the chuck of the drill will not clear. At the top of the door there are two screws on either side of the latch. The two screws are attached to white plastic blocks that serve as a lip to hold the outer door to the liner. It took a little wrestling with the two plastic blocks to slide them out from under the lip, releasing the outer door. Be sure not to let the outer door drop away, as it will tug on the ribbon cables that connect the display to the dishwasher. Keep a towel or sponge handy to keep the
dishwasher handle from resting on the tile floor. There were 4 electrical connections, including two ribbon cables, both of which just pulled out. I needed a needle nose pliers to remove the 2 spade connectors from the detergent dispenser solenoid, in order to pull on the connector, not tug on the wire. The entire repair is actually pretty straightforward and easy. It took 40 minutes, doing it slowly and carefully. But please don't tell anyone that it is easy, because my wife thinks it was an extremely complex repair, involving the risk of high voltage electricity.

The replacement part fits different makes and models, and does not have any brand identification, other than the Cascade logo cast into the front. Other than that, it appears to be identical to the original. Note: The
soap cup does not open for several minutes in the cycle, so don’t waste time or frustrate yourself (as I did) by checking the dispenser during the first 10 minutes of the cycle. Incidentally, although the company is in Canada, my part shipped from Central California (Fresno) and arrived in the Los Angeles area the next business day.