GDWF160V00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

remove front lower cover, 2 philips screws, turn off water supply under kitchen sink to dish washer, turn off power to dish washer, remove water supply line to valve, remove power to valve, clip ons, remove two 5/16" screws holding valve on, turn valve gently to access clip holding washer supply hose, push clip up hose and hold hose while pulling valve off. re-install in reverse order, a flash light helps.

Came home for lunch to discover the kitchen rug soaked and the dishes I had started when I left that morning unclean. Not sure what happened, pushed start again and immediately found water flowing out from under the machine. pulled the machine out and discovered that mice had chewed through the pliable vinyl sump tank. found the part number in my owners manual and google turned it up on Part Select. this was on Saturday and I had the part Tuesday. very satisfied

Water was leaking from under refer next to installed under counter dishwasher. Once determined to be dishwasher not refer I removed dishwasher toe place was able to see dripping inlet solenoid valve. I had to disconnect 11V power, shut off inlet water, disconnect inlet water house and remove dishwasher from under counter. Once dishwasher was in center of kitchen I flipped it upside down and removed the electric solenoid inlet valve. Removing the valve took one wrench to remove inlet hose then two wrenches to remove 90 degree brass fitting and another to hold solenoid. I used a nut drive to remove two screws that released the solenoid from the dishwasher frame. I used teflon tape to reattached the 90 degree brass fitting and inlet hose.

Shut off water, disconnect drain line from disposer. Remove dishwasher from wall and remove water feed line. Unplug or disconnect power to unit. Remove upper and lower dish racks as well as lower water sprayer bar, and filters. Lay dishwasher down on backside (make sure to catch water with bowl). Disconnect pump connector with nut driver and replace. Stand dishwasher back up and reverse removal process

very happy with the product and fast shipping. removed kick plate from dishwasher, inlet valve was on the front left bottom slid out dishwasher removed two screws and disconnected water line,and installed new inlet valve,very simple job if your somewhat handy,make sure you use thred sealant on water line when re installing

Cut power and water flow to the appliance. Laid appliance on its side, removed the electrical lead from the motor. Remove the mount from the back of the motor and loosened the two clamps- one to the sump and one to the discharge tube. Removed and replaced the pump/motor assy. with the new one, reinstalled the clamps, rear mount and electrical lead. Righted the unit and fired it up. Worked fine.

simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.

I examined how the old gasket was attached before removing it. I then pushed in the new gasket needing no tools. There has been no water leakage since.

look at neww part first then r&r

Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.

The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.

Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.

Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.

That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.

The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.

Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.

I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.

Just have a good look at how the original is installed before removing, then clean the area. The new one was a breeze to install, just line it up and pop it in.

removed original rack, inserted replacement.

I took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. It did take both hands as I had to open the dishwasher door while the other hand held the basket. :D

opened the dishwasher .............removed the old and slid in the new ...then attached by dropping in the utensil compartment.....piece of cake

Remove the door panel screws on the inside door frame. You only need to remove as many as needed to remove the larger bottom panel. The other screws will remove the upper button panel and this is not necassary. Unplug the Detergent Dispenser (it may take some force, and unscrew the dispencer. Replace with the new one, screw back in place, and reattatch the plug. Now replace the door panel and screw it back in place. This is all very simple. The only problem I encountered was that the only dispenser had built up so much detergent residue around its base, that it had distorted the plastic around it. This caused the new dispense to not sit flush all the way around, and the dishwasher leaked into the door on its first cycle. Simply filling the gap with 100% silicon caulk has fixed the problem. Washes like new.