GDT740SSF0SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I determined the guide rail on one side had broke when the white plastic bearings fell out of their track. I decided to replace both sides at the same time, so I ordered 2. They arrived quickly and I installed them and placed the middle rack back into the dishwasher. Went together fairly easily. I took pictures before removing the guides from the rack, so I would remember how to put the new ones back one when they arrived. Very happy with this DIY repair that easily would have taken much longer and would have been way more expensive! Thank you!

Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.

Took out the old and swapped out the parts from the old one and put them on the new rack. Looks great and works great.

I replaced the Flood Switch Part Number: WD21X10519.
I found that be removing the bottom front cover under dishwasher door, there was a small black plastic clamp holding up the wiring cable. By disconnecting the clamp, it gave me a few more inching of wire inside the machine, which made disconnecting old flood switch easier. It also help in installing the new flood switch. Then finally i reinstall the clamp cable under the machine to finish the job.

The part did not fit at all but not worth it to me to return it. The part I need is about 20 inches in length and the one sent was about 10 inches. I will simply call for this dishwasher to be repaired or replaced.

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.

Bottom rack came complete with all racks. Only had to transfer the (2) side bumper guards,

1. Take a picture of the old rack in the dishwasher! Just in case!
2. Remove rail channel end caps and place them on the tabletop on the correct side to make sure you put them back on the correct side.
3. Remove old rack.
4. Carefully snap off the water sprinkling unit. (carefully push down tabs so they don't break).
5. Using your picture as a reference (!) snap the water sprinkling unit on the new rack (it's easy).
6. Put the new rack back onto the rail channel and replace the end caps.

Done! Very easy installation ! Rack was not nearly as expensive as I anticipated and was delivered quickly. Note: You get the rack only. All ot the other parts are from the old unit.

I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light.
So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle.
When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well.
Sincerely,
Scott

I removed the old roller wheels and the new roller wheels snapped together and the simple instructions made the repair quick and simple..

Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good
Researched symptoms on YouTube
Removed and inspected float switch part
Ordered and replaced part.

Followed directions on YouTube

Installed new heater by pulling unit out of it’s cubby hole. Was able to gain access to the nuts that hold it down and make the seal, as well as the electrical connections. Re-installed. Helpful if you remove both dish baskets and utencil basket for access when installing heater.

Parts diagram shows Striker can be popped out with screwdriver. Not true. It has a screw bolting it internally. Impossible to get to unless you disassemble the entire door. We took a power drill and small drill bit and bore it out like a cavity in a tooth. Needle nose pliers to extract the screw. Pretend your a dentist. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Replacement fit tight. A+

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...