GDT530PGD1WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Russ from SPRING, TX
- Parts Used:
- WD28X28918
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old lower rack was rusted
Opened the box took the rack out and placed it in the dishwasher. Good as new.
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- Customer:
- ANNE from LAKE PLACID, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD28X28918
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Original lower rack rusted
Pulled out old rack and replaced with new rack.
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- Customer:
- Charles from MYRTLE BEACH, SC
- Parts Used:
- WD28X35779, WD28X28918
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Racks were rusted.
Ordered new parts, unpacked the shipping containers, removed old racks and inserted the new ones. piece of cake. Perfect fit and prompt service.
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- Customer:
- Randal from TWIN FALLS, ID
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10519
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Wife said Dishes were not Drying and leaving Spots !
I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light.
So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle.
When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well.
Sincerely,
Scott
So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle.
When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well.
Sincerely,
Scott
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from SEBRING, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD22X33498, WD22X33499
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
All 3 spray arms were stoped up.
Replaced all 3 spray arms in less than 10 minutes.The top one came in two pieces,the mounting bracket and the arm.Snap the bracket on the dishwasher first , then attach the arm to the bracket.
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- Customer:
- Brad from MILLHEIM, PA
- Parts Used:
- WD15X10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Water leak
Unscrewed mounting bracket from Fram. Unplugged wires. Took adjustable wrench took water line connector off original valve. Place connector on new valve and reconnected all lines and mounted back on frame.
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- Customer:
- Cris from BAYFIELD, CO
- Parts Used:
- WD22X10094
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
The upper arm in the dishwasher broke.
Followed your instructions and was finished in 5 minutes.
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- Customer:
- James from DELAND, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD22X33498, WD22X33499, WD35X20794
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Knocking sound during wash cycle
Replace all three spray arms and knocking sound disappeared.
Unscrewed counter clockwise old sprayer arms and lifted. Replaced with new sprayer arms and noise disappeared.
Unscrewed counter clockwise old sprayer arms and lifted. Replaced with new sprayer arms and noise disappeared.
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- Customer:
- Teresa from DETROIT, MI
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10519
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Dishwasher did not dry dishes
Followed directions on YouTube
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- Customer:
- Alvin from SCHENECTADY, NY
- Parts Used:
- WD08X21894
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Door gasket at bottom of door was falling apart and leaking
1. Shut off circuit breaker power
2. remove toekick
3 .disconnect door wire harness at bottom of main control board
4. release 2 wire ties securing harness to tub using long nose pliers
5. remove 2- 1/4 in. hex head screws from bottom of door
6. insert 5/32 in Allen wrench through existing holes in front leg and hinge arm when door is partially opened.(about 1/4 of the way)
7. repeat step 6 on both sides (this locks door partially open)
8. lift door up about 3 in. then tilt door in and remove door completely
9. slide old gasket out and replace with new gasket
9. reassemble door
2. remove toekick
3 .disconnect door wire harness at bottom of main control board
4. release 2 wire ties securing harness to tub using long nose pliers
5. remove 2- 1/4 in. hex head screws from bottom of door
6. insert 5/32 in Allen wrench through existing holes in front leg and hinge arm when door is partially opened.(about 1/4 of the way)
7. repeat step 6 on both sides (this locks door partially open)
8. lift door up about 3 in. then tilt door in and remove door completely
9. slide old gasket out and replace with new gasket
9. reassemble door
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- Customer:
- Josef from MT CARMEL, TN
- Parts Used:
- WD08X21894, WD08X10092
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Leaking under door
Since I have granite countertops, unscrewed 2 screws on each side of cabinet. Unscrewed the toe plate, unplugged the wire connector, and disconnected the cable
from the door which was held by tie wraps. Pulled out dishwasher about a foot. Unhooked the spring cable to the door, lifted the door out and placed it on a spare table. With door face down on a towel, I unscrewed the screws at the bottom to release the latches, then unscrew the screws that hold the door locked in place. Turned the door on its back face up, wedged a flathead driver to release the settings display, from the body of the door. Separated the 2 panels replaced the foam rubber vent seal. Placed the face face down, reconnected both pieces of the door together pushing down. Rescrewed the bottom to lock the 2 pieces together reinsert the hinges, screwed them in with nutdriver1/4". Grabbed the old gasket, replaced it with new one, sliding it into the groove on the bottom inside of door. Reattached the door to the washer, rehooked the cables to the door, retired with zip ties the cable to the underside of door, reinstalled the wire connector, and re screwed the toe plate. Pushed the dishwasher, leveled, rescrewed into cabinet. Replaced the tub gasket.
from the door which was held by tie wraps. Pulled out dishwasher about a foot. Unhooked the spring cable to the door, lifted the door out and placed it on a spare table. With door face down on a towel, I unscrewed the screws at the bottom to release the latches, then unscrew the screws that hold the door locked in place. Turned the door on its back face up, wedged a flathead driver to release the settings display, from the body of the door. Separated the 2 panels replaced the foam rubber vent seal. Placed the face face down, reconnected both pieces of the door together pushing down. Rescrewed the bottom to lock the 2 pieces together reinsert the hinges, screwed them in with nutdriver1/4". Grabbed the old gasket, replaced it with new one, sliding it into the groove on the bottom inside of door. Reattached the door to the washer, rehooked the cables to the door, retired with zip ties the cable to the underside of door, reinstalled the wire connector, and re screwed the toe plate. Pushed the dishwasher, leveled, rescrewed into cabinet. Replaced the tub gasket.
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- Customer:
- Mario from CHESAPEAKE, VA
- Parts Used:
- WD08X21894
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Heating element broke off and burned a hole in rubber tube, leaking water.
Replaced the dishwasher with a new one! used the same brand (GE) but different model to make the job a little easier, first cut power to the outlet, disconnected electrically from dishwasher, cut off water source from dishwasher, and disconnected hose from garbage disposal, removed old dishwasher put new one in, connected electrical wires (color coded), connected water supply with pliers, and connect your hose to your disposal and level your new disposal with leveling screws that comes with the new dishwasher. Put front cover plate on with screws provided with a screwdriver and that's it.
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- Customer:
- Lesa from BETHALTO, IL
- Parts Used:
- WD13X10071
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Dishwasher would not know door was closed
Parts diagram shows Striker can be popped out with screwdriver. Not true. It has a screw bolting it internally. Impossible to get to unless you disassemble the entire door. We took a power drill and small drill bit and bore it out like a cavity in a tooth. Needle nose pliers to extract the screw. Pretend your a dentist. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Replacement fit tight. A+
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- Customer:
- Bill from Magnolia, TX
- Parts Used:
- WD21X31910
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
We were not getting power to the control panel
The repair made it necessary to remove the door of the dishwasher. Removing the door seemed to be a daunting task, but after watching a YouTube video I made myself aware of the necessary steps to complete the task.
- After turning off the power to the dishwasher, I removed the kickplate panel, this gave access the wiring going to the defective board, which I unplugged.
- Removed the screws securing the dishwasher to the counter, these are located at the top of the machine and are accessible by opening the dishwasher door.
- Pull the dishwasher forward a few inches.
- On each side of the door is a spring loaded device that holds the door from falling open when not latched. They can be identified as white plastic items with a cable connected to them. Once removed take care to not allow the door to fall open, instead, when opened slightly raise the door off the unit.
- Lay the door on the floor.
- There are three sheetmetal screws on each side of the door, using your nut driver remove these screws. They secure outside of the door to the inner door.
- Stand the door up on the floor and raise the outer door panel, there are several plastic clips on each side the slide into slots on the inner door panel. I found it a little difficult to separate the panels, but with gentle persuasion they came apart.
- Lay the inner panel on the floor with the exposed electrical components facing up.
- At the top of the inner panel is a black plastic cover protecting the electronic components, this where the control panel lives.
- Remove the sheetmetal screws that secures this plastic cover.
- There are two wiring harnesses, remove them.
- The defective component can be lifted out.
- Install the new control panel.
- Reassemble.
- After turning off the power to the dishwasher, I removed the kickplate panel, this gave access the wiring going to the defective board, which I unplugged.
- Removed the screws securing the dishwasher to the counter, these are located at the top of the machine and are accessible by opening the dishwasher door.
- Pull the dishwasher forward a few inches.
- On each side of the door is a spring loaded device that holds the door from falling open when not latched. They can be identified as white plastic items with a cable connected to them. Once removed take care to not allow the door to fall open, instead, when opened slightly raise the door off the unit.
- Lay the door on the floor.
- There are three sheetmetal screws on each side of the door, using your nut driver remove these screws. They secure outside of the door to the inner door.
- Stand the door up on the floor and raise the outer door panel, there are several plastic clips on each side the slide into slots on the inner door panel. I found it a little difficult to separate the panels, but with gentle persuasion they came apart.
- Lay the inner panel on the floor with the exposed electrical components facing up.
- At the top of the inner panel is a black plastic cover protecting the electronic components, this where the control panel lives.
- Remove the sheetmetal screws that secures this plastic cover.
- There are two wiring harnesses, remove them.
- The defective component can be lifted out.
- Install the new control panel.
- Reassemble.
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- Customer:
- Paul from STEWARTSVILLE, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WD05X30818
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Not drying dishes
Installed new heater by pulling unit out of it’s cubby hole. Was able to gain access to the nuts that hold it down and make the seal, as well as the electrical connections. Re-installed. Helpful if you remove both dish baskets and utencil basket for access when installing heater.
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