GDF520PGD2BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

*Unplug the dishwasher. My drain hose was long enough so no need to disconnect.
Access the motherboard and found a solid green light. This indicates the motherboard is not communicating with the user interface.

Door removal:
- removed kick plate
-unplugged door wire assembly and wire harness clip
-Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pull dishwasher out about 6 inches
-Detached pulley rope assembly from door hinge
-Open door about 4 inches and pull up and towards me.
-Lay the door down, removed vent cap and four T20 screws from the side bottom, remove two 1/4 inch bolt from each hinge(the hinges have four bolts, but only to need to be removed)
-push up on the plastic inner door from outer door and set aside.
-Unscrew four 1/4 inch bolts holding user interface and unplug wire assembly. (The two middle screws are longer than the two outer screws)
-be sure to ground yourself before touching the new user interface board
-read the instructions for the new interface board clip positions(mine was already position correctly)
-Assemble the door and be sure to connect the wire assembly and harness clip.

Replaced heating element. This was the path of least resistance but the problem persisted. I tried resetting the dishwasher but still nothing. My last resort is the circuit board. I checked the relays on the old board and they are fine so it must be something else on the circuit board. The dishwasher is not really that old (4 years) and everything else is fine. Just ordered the board so I really hope this fixes the problem.

Removed the screen cover and then removed two bolts with nut driver and removed white plastic retaining piece. Pulled flood switch out of housing (raise approximately 2 inches) then unfasten electrical plug. New part connects to electrical plug (pnly can fit one way so no problem with orientation). Pushed floid switch bsck into lace and attached white plastic retainer with two bolts and then set screen cover back. Very simple and easy.

1) Pull out lower basket plate holder out. Now would be a good time to check roller wheels. 2) Grasp lower spray arm base (knurled collar on base) and turn counter clockwise to release. 3) Install new spray arm and turn knurled collar on base clockwise to lock it in. 4) Reinstall lower basket plate holder.
* Done *

Opened the door, put arm on bottom, slid in and twisted. Very, very easy. The right part means a lot. Thank you very much. “ Ol Stump”.

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

I watched a step by step video provided on the Fix It app. Easy to follow directions and only took minutes to tear apart and put back together. Didn't even require help from my husband. Although the latch and striker were not the problem, contacted parts select and they then recommended the electronic control board, they ordered it, had it shipped to me within a few days, another really easy fix I did using the You tube video. Fixed the problem lickety-split. I will never go without my fix it app. Entered all my appliances. Sure beats spending hundreds on appliance repairmen! Thank you Parts Select!

The lower tray was simple. Lifted the old one out and placed the new one on the lid of dishwasher.

Upper tray: Used the closed point of scissors to gently push the little piece of plastic on the slide and removed the cap on each slider. Pulled the damaged tray off of the sliders. Removed the piece that shoots the water onto the dishes and placed it on the new tray. Put the tray back on the sliders and replaced the little caps back onto the slider so that the tray did not come off of the track. Voila!!

Dishwasher is under 2yrs old and suddenly failed to drain due to the drain pump not working. I read the reviews on how easy it was to change and went ahead and purchased one. After removing the screw from the appliance bracket under the counter and the two screws from the base plate, it was easy to pull the dishwasher from under the counter and away to flip to its side. I would recommend draining the drain hose first and making sure no water is in the tub. Keep a towel nearby. Removing the drain pump was simple. I needed a nose tip pliers to remove one of the hose clamps and a screwdriver for the other clamp. Once the pump was removed, I opened the old pump by twisting the top part while pressing the tabs to remove upper housing. There was a broken piece of glass that had wedged itself in the mechanism which prevented the pump from working. I wish I had checked that first, before purchasing a new drain pump. I kept the old pump as a backup for the future. It took no more than 20 minutes to get the pump replaced and the dishwasher back in place. Dishwasher drains just as new. By the way, costed under $100 with delivery. An appliance repair company wanted $250!!
Not the first time PartSelect saved me money and won’t be my last!

I checked all the drain lines and filter for blockage. All looked good. I unplugged the unit and unscrewed the two screws adhereing the dishwasker to the counter. I shopvacced the water out of the bottom of the unit, slid it out, and carefully placed it on its back to access the pump. I unplugged the power to the pump, removed the intake and outake ring fasteners. Carefully removed the pump and inserted the new part, mopping up water as I went. Replace the rings, plugged in power to the pump, righted the unit and put it back. Replaced filter with the one that came with the kit.

Removed toe kick. Removed door counter weights and placed door on soft surface. Removed two bolts(I was able to leave hinges in place) slid door panel down and off. Removed plastic snap fit cover and 4 bolts from UI board. Two of the stand-offs where broken, glued them back into place. Ensured jumpers were set to my model, snapped cover back in place and remounted door. The dishwasher now runs through the cycle and clean light but did not dry. That turned out to be a bad flood switch.

The service lady looked up possible trouble items and narrowed it down to the flood switch. Being the most likely cause, I ordered a new one. I removed both trays, the lower sprayer, and both screens. The flood switch has an electric plug on the bottom of it that just pulls off. Just as with other appliance repairs, I actually got the old flood switch to work again before trying the new one. I should have tried to free up the float before ordering the new one. But in case this happens again, I’ll just put the new one in.

took out old and replaced with new

The replacement of the parts was simple enough, but the board appears to need a jumper which was not in the original board.

The start button works, but beeps three times and doesn’t start the washer

Turned off pier at breaker. Removed dishwasher from under counter after disconnecting water line from dishwasher and drain tube from under sink. You might get a little residual water but not much. Removed old flood switch took about 2 minutes. Replaced with new flood switch. Then tilted dishwasher back to get to plastic nuts that hold down heating element. Set unit back down and removed old heating element then replace it with new one. Replace plastic nuts that hold element. Exact parts makes job easy. Them put water hose back on an put washer back in place hooked drain hose back up. Turned water and power back on. Tested unit worked perfectly. Hardest part of job was putting the dishwasher back into counter and getting the Instalation back on top.
Parts replacement time was about 10 minutes.
Disconnecting and reconnecting and replacing dishwasher 40 minutes. But I wouldn’t pay anyone to do this because it’s really not difficult.