GDF520PGD1BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Once I got the dishwasher out of the cabinet, which required removing the top screws and then the lower face plate. I then removed the old pump by disconnecting the hoses, then removing the old pump by pulling it from the hanger wire. I then disconnected the wire harness. I then put the new pump in place in reverse order. The wire harness connections were different, and the new harness that came with the new pump I was not sure how it may have went with this unit. So I hard wired it by sniping out the wire connector on both sides and wire nutting the connections. Once done I put the dishwasher back in place and tested. Worked like a charm.

Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.

The repair instructions were great and the repair went well. The repair took less than an hour.

Thank you
Gary

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.

I was very confident that the problem with my GE Adora DDT595SSJ5SS was that it needed a new UI board. It had been beeping randomly for a couple of months, requiring a circuit breaker reset every so often, until finally it stopped working entirely. When I looked at the main board underneath, the LED was flashing too fast for me to count the blinks. These were the signature signs of the UI board going out -- and this did indeed turn out to be the problem. I've run the dishwasher several times since replacing the board, and there have been no issues.

The only real issue I had with the repair job was removing the dishwasher door. This was because the door of my model was held in place by a pair of tension cables (bottom left and bottom right of the unit), rather than hinges, and the cable method of attachment is less documented online. I had to get hold of a user manual for my unit to even discover this fact about it, since I had purchased my home with this dishwasher already present and did not see it being installed originally.

What I had to do was to pull the unit out about five inches, exposing the attachments for these cables (they are on the outside of the unit), so I could hook my heavy wire hook under them and detach them. If your dishwasher has these cables on the door, you really do need a hook tool of some sort to remove them. If you have strong wire, you can make one yourself as I did. Anyway, removing the cables allowed me to remove the door. After that it was straightforward to unscrew and unbolt the various panels, set the jumpers on the new UI board, and screw everything back together.

I should note that the cables were not tricky in any way, just that all of these Adora units seem to be a bit different and I happened to have one with a method of attaching the door that is not very well documented. I hope that this helps someone with this type of unit. If you see those videos online referring to detaching the door from hinges, and you can't find anything on yours that looks or feels like that, consider that you might have cables instead on the outside of the unit.

The part did not fit at all but not worth it to me to return it. The part I need is about 20 inches in length and the one sent was about 10 inches. I will simply call for this dishwasher to be repaired or replaced.

YouTube search indicated the common problem was the Dishwasher Electronic Control Board, part # WD21X10537. YouTube was wrong. $83.76 mistake. (not Parts Selects fault)
I continued my search and stumbled on JustAnswers.com for $38.00.
They diagnosed the issue by me describing the lights that were blinking and for how long, and quickly told me the door latch is not registering. However, said it is rarely the door latch, but rather the Electronic Control Board, part # PS12726419 for $105.90. What the heck, I'll bite.
Bought both parts at Parts Select, quick shipping, solid packaging and good return policy (learned from previous experience). I did not return the 1st part, figured it probably wasn't long for this world anyway.
Dishwasher is running fine again. The combination of JustAnswers.com and PartSelect.com is far better than an extended warranty. Extended warranties last 3 yrs in most cases and cost as much as I spent. Someone with smaller hands could have done both repairs much quicker.

Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good
Researched symptoms on YouTube
Removed and inspected float switch part
Ordered and replaced part.

I removed the old roller wheels and the new roller wheels snapped together and the simple instructions made the repair quick and simple..

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

Took out the old and swapped out the parts from the old one and put them on the new rack. Looks great and works great.

I replaced the Flood Switch Part Number: WD21X10519.
I found that be removing the bottom front cover under dishwasher door, there was a small black plastic clamp holding up the wiring cable. By disconnecting the clamp, it gave me a few more inching of wire inside the machine, which made disconnecting old flood switch easier. It also help in installing the new flood switch. Then finally i reinstall the clamp cable under the machine to finish the job.

Simple answer- do not try to do this. GE makes you replace the entire door to replace this $3 part or call them and pay $100s to fix it. We decided to replace the entire dishwasher after we went through disassembly (there are no instructions on this) only to find out we could not fix without a brand new door.

Board did not work. The socket for the jumper pins wasn’t installed on the board. Not sure if it was the correct unit. Decided to forget about doing a repair and just replaced the unit

This is NOT a complaint about Parts Select (GE however has some packaging issues to resolve). It may become a complaint of Parts Select if not resolved to my full refund.

Unable to repair with provided part.

I have performed this repair in the past easily and successfully with part from GE Parts. GE Part Number: WD18X10052

GE Parts currently lists part number above as discontinued with a new GE Part
Number: WD35X10386. However not in stock

Found new part number locally however was missing the hose and plastic molded tubing that connects to pump and provides the actual diverter mechanism. Obviously did not purchase.

Ordered from Parts Select on 2021-12-22 and inquired if their part was complete. I was assured it was and paid for overnight shipping at approximate cost of $30.

Part arrives on Christmas Eve, a day late and incomplete. Called Part Select and was assured I would be reimbursed for full cost of part and shipping and was provided with shipping label to return incomplete part at their cost once their stock personnel verifies my claims.

I have photos of original/damaged but complete part beside new in package incomplete part for record and your use if you request.

Email Greg at:
One_US.Marine@yahoo.com