GDF520PGD1BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

*Unplug the dishwasher. My drain hose was long enough so no need to disconnect.
Access the motherboard and found a solid green light. This indicates the motherboard is not communicating with the user interface.

Door removal:
- removed kick plate
-unplugged door wire assembly and wire harness clip
-Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pull dishwasher out about 6 inches
-Detached pulley rope assembly from door hinge
-Open door about 4 inches and pull up and towards me.
-Lay the door down, removed vent cap and four T20 screws from the side bottom, remove two 1/4 inch bolt from each hinge(the hinges have four bolts, but only to need to be removed)
-push up on the plastic inner door from outer door and set aside.
-Unscrew four 1/4 inch bolts holding user interface and unplug wire assembly. (The two middle screws are longer than the two outer screws)
-be sure to ground yourself before touching the new user interface board
-read the instructions for the new interface board clip positions(mine was already position correctly)
-Assemble the door and be sure to connect the wire assembly and harness clip.

The dishwasher had been installed before we added 3/4 oak floor, so I could not pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. That will be a major project when the dishwasher dies.
To remove the door, I removed the two 1/4 " screws on the right and left bottom of the door. I used a box wrench since that was the only way to reach them. One had corroded due to a leak. it took some coaxing but finally came loose. The hint about opening the door 27 degrees and propping it open with two Allan wrenches through the hinge holes was very helpful. Then I lifted the door a little and gently pushed toward the counter releasing the door form the hinges. I took the door off to find a leak and found the right corner edge of the inside tub had cracked. Not sure how this happened. I cleaned and sanded the crack area and used J-B Weld to epoxy the crack. Replacing the gasket was easy. Slide out the old, slide in the new. Everything went back together smoothly. If I hadn't needed to repair the tub, the hint about opening the door all the way and sliding it out part way might have worked to change the gasket. Note. Unlike a stove door the dishwasher door is not that heavy.

Opened the door, put arm on bottom, slid in and twisted. Very, very easy. The right part means a lot. Thank you very much. “ Ol Stump”.

I watched a step by step video provided on the Fix It app. Easy to follow directions and only took minutes to tear apart and put back together. Didn't even require help from my husband. Although the latch and striker were not the problem, contacted parts select and they then recommended the electronic control board, they ordered it, had it shipped to me within a few days, another really easy fix I did using the You tube video. Fixed the problem lickety-split. I will never go without my fix it app. Entered all my appliances. Sure beats spending hundreds on appliance repairmen! Thank you Parts Select!

The lower tray was simple. Lifted the old one out and placed the new one on the lid of dishwasher.

Upper tray: Used the closed point of scissors to gently push the little piece of plastic on the slide and removed the cap on each slider. Pulled the damaged tray off of the sliders. Removed the piece that shoots the water onto the dishes and placed it on the new tray. Put the tray back on the sliders and replaced the little caps back onto the slider so that the tray did not come off of the track. Voila!!

Removed toe kick. Removed door counter weights and placed door on soft surface. Removed two bolts(I was able to leave hinges in place) slid door panel down and off. Removed plastic snap fit cover and 4 bolts from UI board. Two of the stand-offs where broken, glued them back into place. Ensured jumpers were set to my model, snapped cover back in place and remounted door. The dishwasher now runs through the cycle and clean light but did not dry. That turned out to be a bad flood switch.

The service lady looked up possible trouble items and narrowed it down to the flood switch. Being the most likely cause, I ordered a new one. I removed both trays, the lower sprayer, and both screens. The flood switch has an electric plug on the bottom of it that just pulls off. Just as with other appliance repairs, I actually got the old flood switch to work again before trying the new one. I should have tried to free up the float before ordering the new one. But in case this happens again, I’ll just put the new one in.

Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!

Turned off pier at breaker. Removed dishwasher from under counter after disconnecting water line from dishwasher and drain tube from under sink. You might get a little residual water but not much. Removed old flood switch took about 2 minutes. Replaced with new flood switch. Then tilted dishwasher back to get to plastic nuts that hold down heating element. Set unit back down and removed old heating element then replace it with new one. Replace plastic nuts that hold element. Exact parts makes job easy. Them put water hose back on an put washer back in place hooked drain hose back up. Turned water and power back on. Tested unit worked perfectly. Hardest part of job was putting the dishwasher back into counter and getting the Instalation back on top.
Parts replacement time was about 10 minutes.
Disconnecting and reconnecting and replacing dishwasher 40 minutes. But I wouldn’t pay anyone to do this because it’s really not difficult.

The replacement of the parts was simple enough, but the board appears to need a jumper which was not in the original board.

The start button works, but beeps three times and doesn’t start the washer

Had to remove the rubber gasket on the new spray arm to install the device, as it was hard to push into the above slot that fits the arm..

It was relatively easy to fix. I unscrewed the mounting screws from the cabinet, slide the dishwasher out to access the pump under the dishwasher, I did raise the dishwasher on the left side and steadied with a stool to make access to the pump fitting easier. Then I loosed both clamps at the ends of the hose ie. from the dishwasher pump and the connection to the sink drain line, pulled the clamp off of the end that connects to the pump and placed it on the new hose connection, I removed the old hose, connected the new one and tightened the drain line connections. I placed the hose in the hose holders on the side of the dishwasher slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it in place with the mounting screws.

So after noticing some horrid food waste build up in my 9 year old dishwasher, I determined it wasn't heating the water during the wash cycle. I came on here to check how to replace the heating element and was surprised when the flood switch was instead strongly recommended as the first repair step.

I ordered the part, and prepped the dishwasher for the repair (Pro-tip: Clothes pin attached to the bottom of the flood switch wiring harness ensures it doesn't slip down below the opening during the part swap!). The part swap and reassembly only took 5-10 mins or so after prep and dishwasher is now heating water and running great again. Many thanks to partselect.com for the detailed installation guides/videos and the parts recommendations!

took out old and replaced with new

Simply put it on and twist it to lock in place. Took all of 3 seconds