GDF510PGD2BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

This is NOT a complaint about Parts Select (GE however has some packaging issues to resolve). It may become a complaint of Parts Select if not resolved to my full refund.

Unable to repair with provided part.

I have performed this repair in the past easily and successfully with part from GE Parts. GE Part Number: WD18X10052

GE Parts currently lists part number above as discontinued with a new GE Part
Number: WD35X10386. However not in stock

Found new part number locally however was missing the hose and plastic molded tubing that connects to pump and provides the actual diverter mechanism. Obviously did not purchase.

Ordered from Parts Select on 2021-12-22 and inquired if their part was complete. I was assured it was and paid for overnight shipping at approximate cost of $30.

Part arrives on Christmas Eve, a day late and incomplete. Called Part Select and was assured I would be reimbursed for full cost of part and shipping and was provided with shipping label to return incomplete part at their cost once their stock personnel verifies my claims.

I have photos of original/damaged but complete part beside new in package incomplete part for record and your use if you request.

Email Greg at:
One_US.Marine@yahoo.com

I removed the old roller wheels and the new roller wheels snapped together and the simple instructions made the repair quick and simple..

Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good
Researched symptoms on YouTube
Removed and inspected float switch part
Ordered and replaced part.

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.

The part did not fit at all but not worth it to me to return it. The part I need is about 20 inches in length and the one sent was about 10 inches. I will simply call for this dishwasher to be repaired or replaced.

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

After hours looking for problem. I tried cleaning door gasket. Did not stop leak. Looked at lower water spray arm and it was split. It is literally a 2 minute repair to remove and install. Knock on wood, no leaks in the last 10 washes.

My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.

Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.

Researched what others have posted about on Parts select. That really helped with the diagnosis! Took a chance on a $28 part. Repairman was going to charge $150 just to show up, then diagnose, leave for 2 months while waiting for the part, charge another $150 plus the part to fix…
Just had to pull out dishwasher far enough to take the water supply line off. Then the water inlet solenoid then 2 more screws and a 2 pronged plug reattach water supply then done! 15 minutes MAX!!!

The only directions that came with the new pump and filter, was how to replace the filter. I had to find a You Tube video to show me where the drain pump was located., and the way to get to it. I also had to figure out how the new pump was hooked up electrically, since the new pump did not work with the plug in on the machine.

1. Shut off circuit breaker power
2. remove toekick
3 .disconnect door wire harness at bottom of main control board
4. release 2 wire ties securing harness to tub using long nose pliers
5. remove 2- 1/4 in. hex head screws from bottom of door
6. insert 5/32 in Allen wrench through existing holes in front leg and hinge arm when door is partially opened.(about 1/4 of the way)
7. repeat step 6 on both sides (this locks door partially open)
8. lift door up about 3 in. then tilt door in and remove door completely
9. slide old gasket out and replace with new gasket
9. reassemble door

Since I have granite countertops, unscrewed 2 screws on each side of cabinet. Unscrewed the toe plate, unplugged the wire connector, and disconnected the cable
from the door which was held by tie wraps. Pulled out dishwasher about a foot. Unhooked the spring cable to the door, lifted the door out and placed it on a spare table. With door face down on a towel, I unscrewed the screws at the bottom to release the latches, then unscrew the screws that hold the door locked in place. Turned the door on its back face up, wedged a flathead driver to release the settings display, from the body of the door. Separated the 2 panels replaced the foam rubber vent seal. Placed the face face down, reconnected both pieces of the door together pushing down. Rescrewed the bottom to lock the 2 pieces together reinsert the hinges, screwed them in with nutdriver1/4". Grabbed the old gasket, replaced it with new one, sliding it into the groove on the bottom inside of door. Reattached the door to the washer, rehooked the cables to the door, retired with zip ties the cable to the underside of door, reinstalled the wire connector, and re screwed the toe plate. Pushed the dishwasher, leveled, rescrewed into cabinet. Replaced the tub gasket.

Followed directions on YouTube

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...