CDWT980V00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Ordered part online, arrived two days later. Removed and replaced dispenser with new unit. Easy job. Dishwasher works like new.

I took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. It did take both hands as I had to open the dishwasher door while the other hand held the basket. :D

Twisted new one in place of old. Disappointed that there was a melting issue at all. Need to investigate problem.

Removed old basket, put in recycle bin, placed new basket in dish washer. The damage to the original basket was my fault. I now know not to drop heavy knives point down into the basket.

installed new silverware basket

Just pulled out the old basket and put in the new one. . Don't know the holes got into the basket. . .

Removed two pieces on bottom, pulled dishwasher out changed a cable and put it all back together! It was a little plastic piece that broke! Thank you for you quick response! Ordered one day came two days later! Great service!

Remove the door panel screws on the inside door frame. You only need to remove as many as needed to remove the larger bottom panel. The other screws will remove the upper button panel and this is not necassary. Unplug the Detergent Dispenser (it may take some force, and unscrew the dispencer. Replace with the new one, screw back in place, and reattatch the plug. Now replace the door panel and screw it back in place. This is all very simple. The only problem I encountered was that the only dispenser had built up so much detergent residue around its base, that it had distorted the plastic around it. This caused the new dispense to not sit flush all the way around, and the dishwasher leaked into the door on its first cycle. Simply filling the gap with 100% silicon caulk has fixed the problem. Washes like new.

Cut power and water flow to the appliance. Laid appliance on its side, removed the electrical lead from the motor. Remove the mount from the back of the motor and loosened the two clamps- one to the sump and one to the discharge tube. Removed and replaced the pump/motor assy. with the new one, reinstalled the clamps, rear mount and electrical lead. Righted the unit and fired it up. Worked fine.

We noticed our detergent door was not opening on cue to dispense the soap and it was leaving our dishes dirty. It came to be that our spring was sprung on the detergent door. I researched it and I could either buy the spring or the whole detergent contraption (installing the contraption was one wrench easier but cost $35 more). Knowing my husband the way I do, I decided to do the more costly route. I followed the instructions from previous installers on here and me and my husband did it in 30 minutes! I do agree that it is a two man job for some of it as I stressed to him NOT to take the front off haphazardly, as it was $400 to replace that! We took the 12 or so screws off, detached the line to the detergent dispenser, reattached, screwed it into the door and replaced the front 12 or so screws again. Easy peasy! Unbelieveable!

Removed the door gasket and cleaned the track prior to installing the new gasket. The online repair instructions didn't mention a thin wire that is stored at the bottom of the tub near the door and is used to hold the ends of the gasket in place. Gently remove the ends of the gasket from the wire prior to pulling the entire gasket out of the machine track.

NOTE I have classified this is a DIFFICULT JOB, but NOT because of the mechanics involved [including the electrical connectors UN-plugging and re-plugging, BUT DUE to the ANALYSIS you need to do to determine whether the SOAP DISH PART or the CONTROLLER is at fault. And this ANALYSIS will probably require you to get into the DISHWASHER DOOR twice. Once to do the analysis and then again to replace whatever part you target. Being you will want to continue to use the DISHWASHER by manually dropping the soap door [or just soap] at the appropriate time in the cycle, while awaiting the new part, which means you have re-button up the door and take it apart again when the new part arrives. . Before starting, view PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the SOAP DISPENSER, but ignore THE STEPS OF REMOVING AND REPLACING THE SOAP DISPENSER.PART, at this time. The analysis starts with MANUALLY trying to activate the mechanical soap door release on the back of the mounted SOAP DISPENSER, with the soap door closed. It should take only ounces of downward pressure [towards the door hinge] on the vertical plastic piece in a channel near the center of the dispenser, to release the soap door. Next if you have access to an OHM METER {or MULTIMETER} or a DC POWER SUPPLY [to test the the activation of the door release] pull the two connectors on the SOAP DISH SOLENOID [a set pointed pliers will be helpful, as outlined in the VIDEO]. If measuring the SOLENOID's resistance it should read roughly 1800 OHMS. If using a DC POWER SUPPLY, you will probably need at least 25 volts DC to trigger the SOLENOID [NOTE I do not have a variable DC POWER SUPPLY to check it out nor do I know the voltage that the DISHWASHER uses]. Do not bother to measure the resistance of CONTROLLER's driving circuitry [the two wires having connectors], as it will read INFINITY, regardless of whether GOOD or BAD, The CONTROLLER apparently uses a RELAY on this circuit, as opposed to some kind of solid state switch. Replug the SOLENOID connectors. Re-buttoned up the DISHWASHER as shown in the VIDEO, assuming you are going to continue using it If you determine no problems in the above tests, then consider it a CONTROLLER pro0blem and you will need to order one. Otherwise you should have found indications of a SOAP DISPENSER PROBLEM. . When the replacement part arrives and you ready to install it, refer again to PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the Soap Dish Dispenser for a refresher Following the VIDEO completely, if you replacing the DISPENSER. If you are replacing the CONTROLLER, once inside the DOOR, you will need to remove around 6 individual electrical connectors [before doing ANYTHING REMOVE POWER from the DISHWASHER [as instructed in the VIDEO}. These connectors [all but any single wire connectors] are designed to be plugged only one specific way, so when re-plugging NEVER FORCE a connection, The best way to make sure you do not get confused, take a picture of all the connectors -OR- make notes on the looks and orientation of each multi-wire connector. There is one mounting screw on right side of the CONTROLLER. When installing the new CONTROLLER there are mounting EARS on the left side that are first engaged by having the CONTROLLER tilted up on the right side. Replace the mounting screw. Replugged all the connectors using whatever guide you made. Proceed to put the DOOR back together as outlined in the VIDEO.

I examined how the old gasket was attached before removing it. I then pushed in the new gasket needing no tools. There has been no water leakage since.

Shut off water, disconnect drain line from disposer. Remove dishwasher from wall and remove water feed line. Unplug or disconnect power to unit. Remove upper and lower dish racks as well as lower water sprayer bar, and filters. Lay dishwasher down on backside (make sure to catch water with bowl). Disconnect pump connector with nut driver and replace. Stand dishwasher back up and reverse removal process

Water was leaking from under refer next to installed under counter dishwasher. Once determined to be dishwasher not refer I removed dishwasher toe place was able to see dripping inlet solenoid valve. I had to disconnect 11V power, shut off inlet water, disconnect inlet water house and remove dishwasher from under counter. Once dishwasher was in center of kitchen I flipped it upside down and removed the electric solenoid inlet valve. Removing the valve took one wrench to remove inlet hose then two wrenches to remove 90 degree brass fitting and another to hold solenoid. I used a nut drive to remove two screws that released the solenoid from the dishwasher frame. I used teflon tape to reattached the 90 degree brass fitting and inlet hose.