CDWT280V05SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

We had to replace the soap dispenser. My husband is not very handy & this was a snap. You take off the front panel (cover) of the sishwasher & simply unscrew the old one & screw in the new one. I probably could have done it myself.

hubby had no prob replacing the new part!!YEA!!dishes are clean again!

Remove top rack stops, slide out upper rack from rack railing, turn over upper rack and attach spray arm using spray arm bearing and screw. Reassemble in reverse order.

Removed screws that held dishwasher under cabinet...pulled out DW...removed old part...replaced with new....easier than falling off a stump.

I handed the parts to my husband and asked him to do it.

Found numerous references on internet that most likely cause was due to a fouled or plugged suction screen. I unscrewed anchor tabs on top securing the dishwasher to the countertop, slightly lowered the front screw legs, turned off circuit breaker at the electrical panel, checked to verify the power was off, removed the small electrical cover under the dishwasher and disconnected the 3 wire nuts, pulled the dishwasher partially out, then disconnected the small corrugated drain hose from the discharge pump under the washer being careful to collect small amount of drain water in a bowl. Finally, carefully pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop leaving the hot water supply hose connected. Tipped washer over onto back (the frame rails are rounded in the back to help facilitate this). Had to unscrew the hose clamps to remove the rubber sump. Then stood the dishwasher back up to disassemble the plastic screen parts from inside the dishwasher. The screen was in fact plugged with white slimy deposits that when dried became chalk like. During cleaning out the white caked on deposits in the rubber sump, I accidentally pushed my screwdriver through a rubber vent stand tube and this is why I had to buy a new rubber sump. The sump rubber material appeared to be partially deteriorated which is why my screwdriver passed through it. Reassembly wasn't very easy. It was difficult to get the rubber sump boot over the plastic flange on the bottom of the tub. It helped to remove the metal hose clamp completely and to have someone hold the dishwasher in place lying on its back while I pushed and prodded to get the rubber seal over the oval flange. Once on, everything went back together easily in reverse order. It probably took me a total of 6 to 8 hours of real working time. But taking into account that I only worked for short periods of time on evenings after work and the fact I had to lug around my extra 70 lbs of gut, the constant laying down and getting back up, the 4 day wait for the new rubber sump to arrive, and my near senior citizen age stretched this 8 hours of work out to a two week home repair project. BUT, I was successful and everything is back to perfect working order. Thank you Partselect.com for having the sump in stock and to my door in only 4 days!

took apart lower spray wand cleaned filter noticed sump basket tube to be decaying flaking apart sump filled with white grit and flakes had been using Cascade all it's life and had no problems till new formulation of Cascade and then had all the problems. Steps to replace sump basket #1 turn water and power off to dishwasher #2 disconnect water line, drain line, and power cord #3 remove dishwasher from cabinet #4 open door and remove both upper and lower baskets (upper basket comes off when you remove the end plastic pieces(push in the button like piece from the side of the track and remove the end piece on both sides and the rack comes out)) #5 pull up and off lower spray wand be sure you remove the stainless steel washer that they use as a bearing for the wand #6 remove round white nylon nut(fine filter nut) that holds screen assemble in #7 remove screen by pulling straight up this also has a tube that inserts into the sump #8 remove the main conduit assemble from the pump #9 remove the upper spray wand (center screw)unit should come off #10 remove main conduit from dishwasher #11 remove sump screen cover (you may have to squeeze together to remove #12 remove inner sump basket ( it is held in place by 2 molded catches on either sides of the basket you will have to release these or just pry the side together and lift out) #13 sump cover and basket may break in removal but not expensive parts and will have to be remove before lower dishwasher bottom (perforated screen) can be removed #14 a shop vac to suck out remainder of water from sump may be helpful since now you will have to close door and turn unit upside down #15 lower sump connects to the dishwasher housing by a screw clamp, along with a sensor connection, to the pump intake, and the discharge pump #16 after all clamps are removed and the sensor removed pull the sump off the dishwasher body (note a oval ring inside the sump this mush be retained since it does not come with the new sump #17 assemble in reverse order (NOTE BE SURE TO INSTALL THE OVAL WASHER IN SUMP PRIOR TO PUTTING SUMP BACK ON DISHWASHER BODY and MAKE SURE YOU PUT LOWER DISHWASHER SCREEN (YEA THAT PERFERATED STAINLESS STEEL BOTTOM ON BEFORE YOU PUT THE SUMP SCREEN IN) Also clean and flush the fine screen from any food it may have trapped, the wands flush to make sure your spray ports are clear and not plugged. I replace the sump with a new sump screen and sump cover since they are a little different in the new design from the old. I also dumped Cascade and switched to Finish dishwashing soap it still has some phosphates in it which helps cleaning immensely

After determining that the leak was coming from the sump connector, I had to completely remove the unit from the counter. After removing all the parts in the wash cabinet (wash arms,conduit,fine,course and sump filters),the sump connector nut was revealed which I loosened, but did not remove, with a channel lock plier. The unit was then placed up-side down where I then loosened all the worm clamps that attached the drain motor,pump,and turbidity sensor to the sump and sump connector.then I removed the brackets that braced the pump to the washer body and removed the pump.at this point,you should be able to remove the drain motor and turbidity sensor from the sump and remove the sump from the washer. You should also be able to remove the connector as well.Both these items are made of some type of rubber which seems to deteriorate from the soap which was caked all over them in my case. Just reverse the above process to re-install everthing. I didn't find this job terribly difficult and it was certainly better than spending hundreds replacing the unit.

simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.

My husband followed the directions included with the replacement part that we ordered. It was so great to read of others' experience installing the part! It works great and we will certainly use this site again. Thank you so much. We saved $100.00 doing it ourselves.

look at neww part first then r&r

I've never done this before, so I took my time and it took 25 minutes. Now that I know what it looks like inside, it would only take maybe 15 minutes. There are 12 Phillips head screws to remove the front of the washer door. Once off, you need to unplug the large electrical plug to the "dashboard". Remove the screws holding the detergent dispenser, and unplug the two electrical plugs attached. Plug the two plugs back into the new dispenser, and replace the screws, being careful to not tighten to tight. Replace the front of the dishwasher door, with the 12 screws and you're done. Easy job!

Ordered part online, arrived two days later. Removed and replaced dispenser with new unit. Easy job. Dishwasher works like new.

Simply took out the broken rack and inserted the new one.

Installed new rack assembly and it works fine. Thanks