CDWT280V00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.

I examined how the old gasket was attached before removing it. I then pushed in the new gasket needing no tools. There has been no water leakage since.

Twisted new one in place of old. Disappointed that there was a melting issue at all. Need to investigate problem.

Removed the broken console strip using a screw driver to pry the plastic connectors from its mount. Removed remnant pieces of plastic. Lined up new console connectors and pressed into place.

Came home for lunch to discover the kitchen rug soaked and the dishes I had started when I left that morning unclean. Not sure what happened, pushed start again and immediately found water flowing out from under the machine. pulled the machine out and discovered that mice had chewed through the pliable vinyl sump tank. found the part number in my owners manual and google turned it up on Part Select. this was on Saturday and I had the part Tuesday. very satisfied

Water was leaking from under refer next to installed under counter dishwasher. Once determined to be dishwasher not refer I removed dishwasher toe place was able to see dripping inlet solenoid valve. I had to disconnect 11V power, shut off inlet water, disconnect inlet water house and remove dishwasher from under counter. Once dishwasher was in center of kitchen I flipped it upside down and removed the electric solenoid inlet valve. Removing the valve took one wrench to remove inlet hose then two wrenches to remove 90 degree brass fitting and another to hold solenoid. I used a nut drive to remove two screws that released the solenoid from the dishwasher frame. I used teflon tape to reattached the 90 degree brass fitting and inlet hose.

Had purchased SPRING DOOR, CABLE ASM, and HINGE CABLE PULLEY prior to starting repair, as I did not know which piece had failed. Cable assembly was the culprit. SPRING is heavy duty steel, HINGE CABLE PULLEY is nylon, and CABLE ASM (assembly) is braided steel with a steel plate at one end that ties into spring and an inadequate nylon piece that ties into the steel hook on the door. The nylon piece failed through tearing open. REPAIR STEPS: 1. Removed bottom cover plate at front. Two hex head nuts. Nut driver works best but Phillips head screw slots are on nuts. 2. Removed dime-sized cover plates located on either side of main unit where door seals when it is closed. Used Phillips head screwdriver to remove screws that are screwed into cabinets flanking dishwasher. Magnetic tip will help keep you from losing these between dishwasher and cabinet as they are too short to project through the access hole when fully unscrewed. 3. Lowered appliance feet using adjustable pliers. Slip wrench would probably work but six-sided appliance feet are slippery. 4. Loosened drain hose clamp from disposal and removed drain hose. 5. Shut off water line to dishwasher (under sink) and disconnected water line with slip wrench. Steps 4 and 5 were done to give me the slack I needed to pull dishwasher out from cavity far enough to access the side where the repairs were to be made. You may or may not need to do that--try pulling dishwasher out first and see how far it will go. 6. Looked at the problem, which was failed cable assembly. 7. Removed nylon Hinge Cable Pullley with nut driver. This allows cable removal. 8. Put cable back into place (loose) and then replaced Hinge Cable Pulley. 9. Reattached cable to spring on back end and door hook on front end. 10. Pushed dishwasher back into position. 11. Raised appliance feet to proper height. 12. Reinstalled side screws that hold dishwasher against cabinetry. 13. Replaced small screw cover plates. 14. Reattached drain line to disposal. 15. Reattached water line. 16. Turned water on and checked for leaks. 17. Reattached bottom cover plate to front of dishwasher.

Just have a good look at how the original is installed before removing, then clean the area. The new one was a breeze to install, just line it up and pop it in.

I unscrewed the screws in the door of the dishwasher. Then pulled the inside part of the door up and unscrewed the 6 screws that held the dispenser. I am not sure the correct name of the part but it is on the backside of the dispenser and is red and it is where the wires connect to it, that was probably the most difficult part, disconnecting the plastic covers from the old dispenser. I used a butter knife to pop it out and then was able to get a better grip to pull them off. I pushed the wires on the new red thing and then put the new dispenser in place. You have to make sure that the dispenser is in the right spot and the brace on the underside of the inside part of the door, is in the correct place, otherwise, you will have a leak. Which is what happened to me. I just unscrewed and opened it again and screwed the screws tighter and it was fine.

I disconnected the pipes to the inlet valve. I removed the bolts from the bracket holding the valve. I tried to use two wrenches to remove the brass angle pipe thingie off the bottom of the old valve. I then beat on it with a hammer, then I just threw it against the basement floor till it came off. I would recommend getting a new brass angle pipe thingie before you start.

Removed the holding screws around the edges; removed and replaced the soap container; reconnected the electrical leads, and done... Very simple fix. But it does get a little tricky since the door is spring loaded. NOTE: THERE ARE SCREWS AT THE BOTTOM THAT IS NOT OBVIOUS.

Removed two pieces on bottom, pulled dishwasher out changed a cable and put it all back together! It was a little plastic piece that broke! Thank you for you quick response! Ordered one day came two days later! Great service!

look at neww part first then r&r

Cut power and water flow to the appliance. Laid appliance on its side, removed the electrical lead from the motor. Remove the mount from the back of the motor and loosened the two clamps- one to the sump and one to the discharge tube. Removed and replaced the pump/motor assy. with the new one, reinstalled the clamps, rear mount and electrical lead. Righted the unit and fired it up. Worked fine.

First broke the tab on trying to get the sprayer arm out - had to buy replacement part. The tab to release the sprayer arm is on the BACK and can't be seen. FYI, pull the tab gently out from the back to release the sprayer arm. Problem wasn't a clogged drain. Next figured it had to be clogged in the Impeller and Seal assembly. Replaced that and realized the motor wouldn't turn. As an electronic engineer, determined the starting capacitor was defective. Found Mr. Nice GET (who owns Hotpoint) would not sell the capacitor, only the entire motor assembly for about $125.00 more or less. Found a capacitor at local motor shop with the correct value and hung it under the dishwasher. (wasn't the right package size to replace where the old one was). All is well - Finally.