PDWT180R30SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Opened dishwasher after it completed a wash cycle. Found the rinse dispenser cap had come off during the wash and melted on the heating coil at the bottom of the machine. Pulled cap off of coil, made sure coil was not disturbed. Looked in various sites for cap. Finally found this site where I didn't need to order the whole mechanism and could order just the cap. Received the cap, screwed into the dispenser, fixed. The only problem I had was that there were two possible caps so I picked the one that was the same color as the original one. Project completed. Thanks

removed original rack, inserted replacement.

Just pulled out the old basket and put in the new one. . Don't know the holes got into the basket. . .

This is a somewhat difficult task in that the dishwasher had to be pulled out of the cabinet which required the water inlet hose to be removed (and water to the hose to be shut off). Once the dishwasher was free of the cabinet it had to be flipped over to reach the water inlet valve. Once the valve was replaced go in reverse to reinstall the dishwasher. Worked fine after I got everything installed; no leaks.

removed front panel and replaced new part. Timer did not work because plug kept disconnecting. Called GE service and watched him remove panel without removing control panel. Plug for timer can be installed easily and front panel replaced without disturbing cable.

Replaced wax motor and soap dispenser (all one piece). Only problem was the plastic seal on the very bottom of door had come unseated, and therefore was leaking. You need to check that it is snapped all the way in, and then the leak ceased. Took me a few tries, which made a ten minute repair into an hour long one.

Water was leaking from under refer next to installed under counter dishwasher. Once determined to be dishwasher not refer I removed dishwasher toe place was able to see dripping inlet solenoid valve. I had to disconnect 11V power, shut off inlet water, disconnect inlet water house and remove dishwasher from under counter. Once dishwasher was in center of kitchen I flipped it upside down and removed the electric solenoid inlet valve. Removing the valve took one wrench to remove inlet hose then two wrenches to remove 90 degree brass fitting and another to hold solenoid. I used a nut drive to remove two screws that released the solenoid from the dishwasher frame. I used teflon tape to reattached the 90 degree brass fitting and inlet hose.

On the Model PDW9880, there are about 14 screws to be removed. I used a large Phillips driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. You cannot use a cordless drill driver for about 10 of the screws unless you have a long bit, as the 10 screws are so close to the body of the dishwasher door that the chuck of the drill will not clear. At the top of the door there are two screws on either side of the latch. The two screws are attached to white plastic blocks that serve as a lip to hold the outer door to the liner. It took a little wrestling with the two plastic blocks to slide them out from under the lip, releasing the outer door. Be sure not to let the outer door drop away, as it will tug on the ribbon cables that connect the display to the dishwasher. Keep a towel or sponge handy to keep the
dishwasher handle from resting on the tile floor. There were 4 electrical connections, including two ribbon cables, both of which just pulled out. I needed a needle nose pliers to remove the 2 spade connectors from the detergent dispenser solenoid, in order to pull on the connector, not tug on the wire. The entire repair is actually pretty straightforward and easy. It took 40 minutes, doing it slowly and carefully. But please don't tell anyone that it is easy, because my wife thinks it was an extremely complex repair, involving the risk of high voltage electricity.

The replacement part fits different makes and models, and does not have any brand identification, other than the Cascade logo cast into the front. Other than that, it appears to be identical to the original. Note: The
soap cup does not open for several minutes in the cycle, so don’t waste time or frustrate yourself (as I did) by checking the dispenser during the first 10 minutes of the cycle. Incidentally, although the company is in Canada, my part shipped from Central California (Fresno) and arrived in the Los Angeles area the next business day.

Came home for lunch to discover the kitchen rug soaked and the dishes I had started when I left that morning unclean. Not sure what happened, pushed start again and immediately found water flowing out from under the machine. pulled the machine out and discovered that mice had chewed through the pliable vinyl sump tank. found the part number in my owners manual and google turned it up on Part Select. this was on Saturday and I had the part Tuesday. very satisfied

remove front lower cover, 2 philips screws, turn off water supply under kitchen sink to dish washer, turn off power to dish washer, remove water supply line to valve, remove power to valve, clip ons, remove two 5/16" screws holding valve on, turn valve gently to access clip holding washer supply hose, push clip up hose and hold hose while pulling valve off. re-install in reverse order, a flash light helps.

Replaced the part by taking off the srews on the inside of the dishwasher door (all of them)to get to the backside of the soap dispenser. Remove an electrical connector by pulling (had to pull off using pliers as it was really on there). Then a couple of screws hold to to the inside of the door. Pretty straight forward.

Shut off water, disconnect drain line from disposer. Remove dishwasher from wall and remove water feed line. Unplug or disconnect power to unit. Remove upper and lower dish racks as well as lower water sprayer bar, and filters. Lay dishwasher down on backside (make sure to catch water with bowl). Disconnect pump connector with nut driver and replace. Stand dishwasher back up and reverse removal process

The quiet power 3 has the heating element in the back, so remove the screws holding the unit in place. Remove the bottom cover and disconnect the water inlet pipe, (after turning off the water of course). Discard the copper tubing if applicable, and pull dishwasher out until you can tilt it forward. Unsrew the plastic nuts and remove the wires for the element. Test the old one to make sure that you need to replace it. When sure of the problem reinstall in the reverse order. Replace the copper with stainless steel braided line and test.

very happy with the product and fast shipping. removed kick plate from dishwasher, inlet valve was on the front left bottom slid out dishwasher removed two screws and disconnected water line,and installed new inlet valve,very simple job if your somewhat handy,make sure you use thred sealant on water line when re installing

The tub gasket is very easy to replace. First I pulled out the old gasket then using the center marking on the new gasket, I centered the gasket at the top then pushed the gasket into the track. At the bottom I reused the wire that holds the two ends in place making sure I attached the separation wire in the same configuration as with the old one. I had another leaking problem with the seal on the bottom of the door. GE does not sell a repair seal for the door bottom and a new inner door must be purchased at around $200. I made that repair using an old bicycle inner tube. I cut the tube into a one inch strip and epoxyed the strip to the tub where the door meets the tub.. Worked perfectly!