PDW7800R30BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I took out the old rack and put in the new rack. Took about 20 seconds tops. But I had thought I needed to order the wheels (8 of them) and the wheel attachments (8 of those, too) separately because when you go to order the rack, it is suggested that you buy those, too. But the rack came with all the parts I needed so I ended up returning the stud rollers. Very happy with the product and the friendly service.

Turned power off, removed dishwasher, tipped on side, removed and installed pump asym, reinstalled

First, I pulled out the drain hose under my sink that connected the dishwasher to the disposal and overflow valve. I drained all the water out of the dishwasher and ran it to see if it would drain. It did not. So I drained the water out again and then pushed the hose back in the hole it came through from the dishwasher. My water for the dishwasher is hooked up under my sink as well so I pushed the excess length of hose through the same hole to give me enough play to get the dishwasher out. Other people may need to disconnect the water first, but regardless, turn off the water at source under the sink.
After concluding that the drain pump was running at the end of the wash cycle (I could hear a slight buzzing sound), I figured that the timer was working as it was telling the pump to run and determined that the pump was not working properly.
I unscrewed the screws that held my kick plate on below the dishwasher door. Turned off power. Took a digital pic of the wiring so I could refer to it when putting back in. Unhooked 3 wires that supplied power.
Then I unscrewed the screws that held my dishwasher under the countertop (2 small screws).
I gently pulled out the dishwasher until it was free of the space it was in under the counter. I put two 3ft 2x4's on the kitchen floor with a few towels under to soak up the extra water that was unable to drain ealier. I turned the dishwasher on its side so that the bottom was now visible.
I then took a digital pic of the broken drain pump all hooked up so I could refer to it when putting the replacement in. After removing the two wires hooked up to the pump and loosening both sides of the pump from the drain and drain hose, I removed the broken pump.
From that point, I installed the new pump and tightened both ends securely, hooked up the wires, picked up the dishwasher on it's bottom, hooked up the three wires for power supply and gently put dishwasher back under counter. I had to pull the drain hose gently and water hose so they would not kink behind the dishwasher. I hooked up the drain hose to the disposal and overflow valve, turned on the water and the power and ran a test cycle. Good to go!

This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

Gasket it self was simple. Just pull out the old rubber gasket and "stuff" in the new one. Note the new gasket was 1-2" short, so I used a piece of the old gasket to fill in the missing length.

The "short seal" was a bit of a mystery on how to actually remove the old one. Taking off the door panel, and almost all the screws on the door did nothing to get access to the short seal. Finally, I simply pryed up the plastic door liner just enough to slide out the old seal. it has a "slot" that engages a plastic bar within the door. Putting in the new was a bit trickier, but after some three handed effort I was able to slide and then snap in the new seal.

So, in the end I really needed to remove NO screws to do the job.

After 10 washes, all seems good with NO leaks.

Bottomline, for a 4 year old dishwasher needing these parts is a bit silly. Older dishwashers I owned lasted 10-15 years with ZERO problems.

So much for GE buying all their appliances in China.......

Exactly as described by a previous reviewer. I pulled out the old rack, put in the new rack and just moved over the cutlery rack.

Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
Opened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.

The seal slides out to the side, but the diswasher had to be pulled out from the counter and the entire door had to be taken apart to do this because the hinge was in the way. In taking apart the door, we opened the front panel by taking out the screws along the sides and disconnected the computer connections. After loosening the hinge, we were able to slide the old seal out and the new seal in. When putting the door back together, it was difficult to reconnect the computer connections while holding up the door front, as these ribbon wires were quite short. We did get it back together and working except that the connection to the display light now doesn't work because it probably became disconnected as we put together the door. Also, the door now is not completely level when open making the bottom tray slide in. This is probably because we got the springs too tight. These things can be fixed, but will wait for another day.

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.

When I first tried to fix the handle I could not figure out where the spring went. I went back online and looked at the diagram of the dishwasher on this site and learned where it went. Once I knew where every piece went it only took me about 5 minutes to put it back in and another 5 minutes to screw the cover back on. I am a newer homeowner and want to be able to do minor fixes. This was my first one and was very happy that I was able to do it on my own.

I replaced the broken/cracked soap and Jet Dry dispenser (i.e. MODULE RINSE AND CAP ASM - part #PS1481889). (Water was leaking into the soap holder and hardening the soap into a lump before the door would open, rendering the soad useless).

Steps:

1) Unplugged the dishwasher.
2) Unscrewed the 6 screws holding the front stainless steel panel to the plastic door; set aside panel and insulation.
3) Unplugged two wires from small electric motor in broken ASM.
4) Unscrewed 6 screws holding ASM in place; easily slid out of door.
5) Slid in replacement ASM and put 6 screws back in (tightened snugly to make slightly warped door bend to new ASM).
6) Plug back in two wires into new ASM.
7) Re-attached stainless steel cover to door (having a 2nd person hold this in place while screwing would've helped).

All done - works like a charm! No more dirty dishes because the soap didn't work right...

Bottom line: If you have a phillips head screwdriver, you can do this repair. Easy to do.

The gaskets arrived in a few days after my order. The tub seal was easy to change and tool only a few minutes with no tools. After I watched a video on the GE website I pulled out the old gasket, wiped out the slot, centered the new gasket at the top, pushed it in the slot to each corner.Then I pulled the end to the end of the track and pushed it in the full side from the bottom up. repeated on the other side.The lower gasket was harder and took about 40 minutes. I took eh door apart but did not need to it could be done with a mirror. Pull the old one out from one side. Don't be afraid of tearing it but get it all out. The new one will snap into the slot if you use a mirror to look in the door and see.

Once we ordered both the "Stud Roller" and "Roller Lower Rack" the repair was simple.

The previous studs mostly disitegrated, so their removal was not an issue. The wheels pulled off easily.

I recomend getting new studs and rollers for all of the wheels on your rack. For me, that was 8 wheels and 8 studs.

First, take the rack out and flp it upside down in a convenient working space. Next, remove all of the old wheels and studs from the rack and discard. Then, snap the new wheels on to the new studs. Next, atached the stud (with the wheel) to each of the 8 spots on the rack. Put the rack back in the dishwasher and walla!

I can't beive that I waited almost two years to make this simple repair.

I just moved into a house and the previous owner did not have the dishwasher mounted to the granite counter top. I purchased the mounting kit and installed to the sides of the dishwasher into predrilled holes and into the sides of the cabinets. It was easy and the dishwasher is now secure.

Installing the gasket took about 45 seconds. It actually took more time to scrub the area clean prior to installing. One quick trick I found was to fold the replacement gasket in two, and use that mark to center the gasket and press it in from there. That way you don't have any guesswork as to how much slack to allow for when starting.