PDWF788P10SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I Googled bottom door gasket replacement on GE model and found several videos walking me through the process. I followed one of them and successfully replaced the gasket without pulling the appliance out.

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

Replaced interlock assembly as one of the possible causes. The replacement was easy, but this was not the final fix. I also replaced the water inlet valve, flood switch and finally found that there was large calcification within the drain tube assembly (not visible, but was blocking water). Got a new flexible tubing and new drain hose, plugged everything together and the dishwasher runs like new now. Watching for a potential leak from the drain tube to drain hose connection and mya need to tape it up, but so far so good...

Removed rack, removed old roller pieces, installed new, replaced rack , and works as new now!!

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

Although the replacement part was different that the original, the replacement is a better design and attached with no difficulty.

The replacement dishwasher basket easily fit in my dishwasher. Easy to order. Quick delivery. Highly recommended.

This lower rack (GE part #WD28X25960) was ready to roll right into the dishwasher straight out of the box, no tools needed.

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

Took screws out that hold front panel on, unplugged wiring, changed soap dispenser, and put everything back together. Not a bad repair at all.

Removed the broken clips - they snap off
then snapped on the new clips and attached them to the rollers.

I measured the diameter of the working wheels from the existing ones, and located the parts I needed from the website. I order two packages, each containing the wheels and axles for the rack.
When delivered, I snapped the wheels onto the delivered axles. Then, I snapped the axels unto the bottom rack, at the correct place. I used a large pliers for leverage because the axel was a bit tight to just simply snap on.
The middle wheels are located just behind the front wheels, thereby offering support when the botton rack is pulled forward for loading. Likewise, they offer support when the rack is pushed back in place.

Very easy - remove the screws around the inside of the door. 6 screws and 2 plugs to remove the assembly. Just be careful not the strip the sheetmetal screws when putting it back together. No screwguns...

I removed the old rack and saved the flatware container. Then I put the new rack in.

The difference between the old one and the new one is that between a busted grocery cart with one wheel that always wants to return to the parking lot, and a well-trained dog that does exactly what I ask it to. The new rack was worth the $95 I spent to get it.

The new rack came with wheels and axles, so I didn't need to order more.