GSM2200V00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Simply removed the old rack and installed the new rack.....easy as 123 ABC. Dishwasher still works fine but the bottom rack had rusted out. Not sure if this is common for this Hotpoint dishwasher as my deciding factor to order from here was that others had the same problem as me.

First, end caps were removed from support rails to free the washer rack. This is a little tricky - flexible rear finger of cap is bent back, then rotated inboard to permit end cap to slide out. Ten top wash rack is rolled out of washer. Old roller support assembies are pried loose and then snapped off their clamp locations on the upper wash rack, one at a time. Then the new rollers are snapped on in same way, except no tools are required.
Two of the old rack rollers were clearly worn out from nearly 10 years of normal operation, where plastic shaft is a bearing surface.

took the front pieces off the front of each bar and placed the new rollers in place. Put the front cover peices back. ....that's it! The only thing i used the screwdriver for was to help remove the pieces, one was more difficult than the other.

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

Removed the rack.
Removed the roller bar.
Removed the roller base from the rack.
Removed the roller from the roller bar.
Replaced in reverse order.

DONE.

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

had to bend back the metal tab that holds the end cap on. this is tricky and a poor design from a repair point of view. i finally got the end cap off without destroying it. replacing the broken wheel was very simple and easy.

Took off the end cap- hardest part- took some twisting-be careful not to break it. After that slid out the old part and just popped the new one in. Then it took a little while again to put the end cap back in. No tools needed.

Very easy, just twist the back 1/2 of the white tab that is in the end of the roller bar and pull out the front. Be sure to put back in the opposite when finished

I removed the end clips on the pull out rack track. took out the broken roller end and snapped the new roller onto the rack and into the track snapped in the end cap. Problem solved !!! Now the wife can get back to work!!!

The biggest challenge is to remove the plastic runner stops without breaking them. I used a small flat blade screw driver to carefully flex back the rear flange of the runner stop so that it would clear the top metal flange of the runner. Then disengage the stop by rotating the body of the stop towards the center of dishwaser tub and this will allow the stop to slide out of the runner flanges. Once the stops are removed it is very simple to remove the rack snap on the new rollers and replace.

First I needed to remove the end caps on the sliding metal rails which hold the rack rollers. This was the most challenging part of the repair and the largest amount of time was devoted to getting them out without breaking them. Once these were off, I slid the rack out, removed all of the rollers and replaced them with the new ones. I guided the rollers back into the metal rails and then began trying to get the end caps back on. Again - dealing with these was the most challenging, but with patient work, they snapped back in. It was helpful to have a screwdriver to 'persuade' the end caps on and off.

Just like the other guy's repair:
Took plastic stops off
Replaced rollers
Installed plastic stops
Forgot to make grunting noise to make wife think I'm working hard.
Walked away.
5 mins.

I pried out the slide stops (just twisted the little plastic tab on the stop). Slid the top rack out. Popped four roller assemblies off. Popped four new ones back on. Aligned the top rack with the slides and slid it back in place. Finally, rocked the stops back in place by inserting the bottom first and pivoting the top. Had to use pliers to move the little plastic tab stops into the upper channel. Done. Works like a champ.