GSD5030D00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

I could not have accomplished this repair without this site. It lead me not only to the problem but what parts would be needed. Since the pump worked okay I decided the water must be draining back from the hose since the bottom of the washer was lower than the discharge point of the drain hose. I thought there must be a check valve someplace. When I found PartSelect it was easy to go to the brand of dishwasher, model number, symptom and lots of advice from people with the same repair in the past. I decided to go with the piston and nut assemble (check valve) and the valve flapper. On the web site there was a blowup diagram that showed where the part was and advice on how to properly install the parts. When I looked at the old check valve and the new one you could easily see that was the problem. Replacing the flapper was added insurance.

Open door, remove lower wash rack, remove 4 screws holding screen in rear of inside tub with 1/4 inch socket. Unscrew piston and nut assy for checkvalve, sounds like a mouthful but it is only 1 part. Checkvalve has 2 small ears on it which allow you to twist it out, it has treads on it. Flapper on check valve flapper rots away and water pumps back into tub instead of being routed to drain line to garbage disposal. Part with shipping was just over $20.

At first I thought I would call a repair man.Then I thought-that will be at least $100!So we went online and found the part.Took about four days to arrive.I pulled the dishwasher out and turned it on it's front.The little leaking hose was easy to remove,two clamps,and the new one installed.Total cost-$14.00.

I connected one end of hose to the drain using a hose clamp and screwdriver then connected the other end to the dishwasher using anouther hose clamp and a screwdriver..

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

I fixed it myself :-) Your website is GREAT! and the delivery time was fast. Thank you so much. Happy Holidays

Simply opened the dishwasher door, removed the gasket insert located in the middle inside of the door and replaced with new. Also went ahead and replaced the seal on the inner edge of the inside dishwasher door. Found very simple instructions on Google on how to do make this repair. Very easy!

removed screen at back of dishwasher from the inside. Twisted piston & nut assembly out by hand and replaced with new one. Very, very simple. Dishwasher works perfectly now.

Your site is great! Saved me a service call for a repairman to come out and tell me what was wrong, order parts and then come back. Total repair was less than $90 including parts and shipping. It arrived in two days from when I ordered it. I ordered the replacement door gasket, the gasket insert and a new checkvalve. This was a super easy fix and I am a girl too boot! I am proud of myself!

I used a phillips screwdriver to take off about 8 screws off the white inner door fascia in order to replace the door seal. Keep this panel upright and do not lay it down since the rinse agent will leak out all over! Found out that the hard way.

Removed the old, dried out, outer door gasket, centered the notch that was on the new gasket at the top of the door and installed it all the way around in the door gasket groove. Installed the gasket insert at the bottom where the door gasket comes together on the bottom of the door.

After that was completed I used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove the 4 hex screws at the back of the dishwasher for the cover that is over the check valve. It is white and has a very fine mesh screen.. so easy to identify.

The old check valve was filled with crud and and the rubber was deteriorated. I just backed the old one out counterclockwise and put in the new one, a little better than finger tight. Replaced the cover and the hex screws with the 1/4" nutdriver.

Reinstalled the white inner door panel, insure the door handle comes through the hole in the front prior to attaching your screws back in place. Closed the dishwasher. Ran it on rinse/hold cycle to make sure no leaks before going for a full wash. Works great and drains now too.

Your site is a lifesaver! Thanks!!!

TOOK THE RACK OUT OF THE BOX AND PLACED IT IN THE DISHWASHER, DONE.

Followed the simple instructions to unscrew the old unit and replace with the new one. The unit was easily located on a diagram on the internet and the website instructions for removal were spot on.

First I removed the bottom dishwasher rack. Using a 1/4" nutdriver I removed (4) 1/4" screws from the drain cover that is inside the dishwasher all the way in the back. This will allow you to get to the piston and nut assembly which was easily removed with no tools by simply grasping and unscrewing. Used a wash cloth to wipe "gunk" from around the threads. I then screwed the new piston and nut assembly in place. Used no tools to tighten, just "snug up" by hand. The seal on my old piston and nut assembly was 50 percent gone, not sealing at all. I guess the years had taken their toll. This solved my problem. The dishwasher washes and drains as it should. Super easy fix. Took me about 10 minutes to do the repair.

Removed filter/screen by unscrewing 2 screws with a nut driver and then unscrewed the old Piston and Nut assembly and simply screwed in the new part. Problem solved and my dishes are much cleaner and the water is draining out completely. Easy fix for this frustrating problem.

Simply removed the old rack and installed the new rack.....easy as 123 ABC. Dishwasher still works fine but the bottom rack had rusted out. Not sure if this is common for this Hotpoint dishwasher as my deciding factor to order from here was that others had the same problem as me.