GSD5620D02BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Put new basket in, threw old one away

We ordered our motor and pump assembly. When it arrived we followed the instructions that came with it. We had no problem with the instructions. We found it to be really easy. I was very happy since this happened 4 days before Thanksgiving. Thanks for the easy instructions, my husband got my dishwasher repaired in plenty of time for our Thanksgiving family get together.

As suggested. Pull washer, remove screws from top and replace with new part. Very simple and easy if you follow steps furnished by this site.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

I removed the dishwasher, removed the front kick panel, layed the dishwasher on its back, loosened the clamps and removed the old motor and pump assy. Cleaned up the area where the unit was, Installed the new unit, tightened the clamps and it was done. Probably took around an hour because of my cleaning up the sealing areas.

I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something.
Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack.
If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver.
Once done, the unit came out very easily.
When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear.
The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose.
We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down.
Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!

1.Shut off the electric! 2.Shut off the water Supply. 3.Removed the two lower front panels(Two bolts each) . 4.The Water supply Solenoid is located far left up front . 5. Unplug power connector clip to the solenoid. 6.remove the two mounting bolts . 7. Use pliers to compress the rubber hose clamp And slide down the hose . 8 some small amount of water maybe in the hose a pan maybe necessary under the solenoid. 9.Gently pull the rubber hose off the nozzle. Complete installation in reverse. May The Force Be With You!

Inside door panel off

Took screws out of door panel to get to the latch and replaced old latch with new one. Super easy

UNPACKED WHEELS AND CLIP. USING NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS SQUEEZED WHEEL TIP TO INSERT IN WHEEL. REMOVED OLD WHEELS AND RETAINER BY HAND. INSTALLED NEW WHEELS INSTALLED AND NEW RETAINERS

We ordered a new lower shelve and slid it in on the rollers and it is secure and works fine.

Installed new lower rack wheel kit

I took the inside door off as shown in the gasket insert video and it made much easier to clean and insert the door gasket.

Removed all 8 wheels and inserted the new one after inserting the axles into each wheel. Replacement wheels had a much better connection to the bottom rack and do not anticipate any problems in the future.