GSD5610D02AA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

Squeeze the new link to the cable hook with pliers while locking the vise grip to the cable for easier handling. Then, using the vise grip on the cable, hook the other end of the link to the dishwasher door hook

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

Repaired by watching the video provided on my computer by this site . This video was a life saver and covered every detail. My thanks to this site !!!

Without any specific directions with the part (which would had been nice. If it wasn't for my husband I wouldn't have known where to start.) I had to carfully pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet (it wasn't heavy) to unplug the power supply. Then we unscrewed 2 screws on the top and the upper arm connection came off. We replaced it with the new one, screwed it back on, reconnected the power supply and pushed the dishwasher back where it belonged. It worked out very well.
Also I want to say I am very happy with the length of time it took to get my part to me. (1 day) I was washing dishes it no time.

Thank You
Debbie Bradford
Hookstown, Pa.

The instructions provided are very good if I had done before. My concern was getting the gasket to sit properly at the bottom where you cannot see. I removed the inside of the door (7 screws) and this made it easier to assure gasket sat properly in the track. may have cost an extra 15 minutes but worth it. If I do again I will take door apart again, however I think this is fixed and should not need attention again.

I removed the dishwasher, removed the front kick panel, layed the dishwasher on its back, loosened the clamps and removed the old motor and pump assy. Cleaned up the area where the unit was, Installed the new unit, tightened the clamps and it was done. Probably took around an hour because of my cleaning up the sealing areas.

I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something.
Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack.
If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver.
Once done, the unit came out very easily.
When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear.
The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose.
We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down.
Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

Open door, remove lower wash rack, remove 4 screws holding screen in rear of inside tub with 1/4 inch socket. Unscrew piston and nut assy for checkvalve, sounds like a mouthful but it is only 1 part. Checkvalve has 2 small ears on it which allow you to twist it out, it has treads on it. Flapper on check valve flapper rots away and water pumps back into tub instead of being routed to drain line to garbage disposal. Part with shipping was just over $20.

At first I thought I would call a repair man.Then I thought-that will be at least $100!So we went online and found the part.Took about four days to arrive.I pulled the dishwasher out and turned it on it's front.The little leaking hose was easy to remove,two clamps,and the new one installed.Total cost-$14.00.

Simply opened the dishwasher door, removed the gasket insert located in the middle inside of the door and replaced with new. Also went ahead and replaced the seal on the inner edge of the inside dishwasher door. Found very simple instructions on Google on how to do make this repair. Very easy!

I fixed it myself :-) Your website is GREAT! and the delivery time was fast. Thank you so much. Happy Holidays