GLD6906R30WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Just put axle and wheel together and popped them on. Thank you. I know you saved me a bundle.

Repair easy. . Snap it in. . . . . . Impressed with the speedy delivery. Thanks

Simply discarded old wheel assembly and snapped new wheel assembly in place. Very simple.

It was easy as pie. The new wheels came with the new axles already attached, and the whole wheel just snapped onto the lower rack. I ordered 6 and they arrived quickly and attached within minutes, and the dishwasher actually works better now that the rack is raised properly. Thank you!

pulled the racks out, replaced the broken parts....easy job

The connector pump had a pinhole leak at the seam (new part did not have seams). Also replaced the sump inlet which looked worn and the impeller.

Lay dishwasher on it's back to access the bottom. Loosen all clamps. Remove both U shaped holders on the sump inlet. Remove screws holding the drain motor. Pull out the pump motor and sump inlet. Connector pump can be unscrewed from the bottom.

Replace parts and reassemble. It isn't that bad once you start disassembly, especially for anyone somewhat handy.

Replaced the entire basket and lids.

Dishwasher would not drain. I confirmed it was the drain pump by starting the DW and pressing reset 10 sec. later. When functioning properly, pump will engage and drain the DW. In my case, nothing except a blinking light for 30 sec. I turned off power at circuit breaker, remove base plate (no need to pull dishwasher), disconnected pump from hose (DW side) and caught water, disconnected hanger hook from DW (requires a little twisting), disconnected on house drain side, marked two sets of wires (1,2), removed wires by shoving nail into coupler (otherwise hard to disconnect), and removed pump. Repeat in reverse order to connect new pump.

Turned power off, removed dishwasher, tipped on side, removed and installed pump asym, reinstalled

First, I pulled out the drain hose under my sink that connected the dishwasher to the disposal and overflow valve. I drained all the water out of the dishwasher and ran it to see if it would drain. It did not. So I drained the water out again and then pushed the hose back in the hole it came through from the dishwasher. My water for the dishwasher is hooked up under my sink as well so I pushed the excess length of hose through the same hole to give me enough play to get the dishwasher out. Other people may need to disconnect the water first, but regardless, turn off the water at source under the sink.
After concluding that the drain pump was running at the end of the wash cycle (I could hear a slight buzzing sound), I figured that the timer was working as it was telling the pump to run and determined that the pump was not working properly.
I unscrewed the screws that held my kick plate on below the dishwasher door. Turned off power. Took a digital pic of the wiring so I could refer to it when putting back in. Unhooked 3 wires that supplied power.
Then I unscrewed the screws that held my dishwasher under the countertop (2 small screws).
I gently pulled out the dishwasher until it was free of the space it was in under the counter. I put two 3ft 2x4's on the kitchen floor with a few towels under to soak up the extra water that was unable to drain ealier. I turned the dishwasher on its side so that the bottom was now visible.
I then took a digital pic of the broken drain pump all hooked up so I could refer to it when putting the replacement in. After removing the two wires hooked up to the pump and loosening both sides of the pump from the drain and drain hose, I removed the broken pump.
From that point, I installed the new pump and tightened both ends securely, hooked up the wires, picked up the dishwasher on it's bottom, hooked up the three wires for power supply and gently put dishwasher back under counter. I had to pull the drain hose gently and water hose so they would not kink behind the dishwasher. I hooked up the drain hose to the disposal and overflow valve, turned on the water and the power and ran a test cycle. Good to go!

I removed the screws on the inside of the door assembly, which allows the inside of the door to seperate from the outside. The escuchen (control panel) was easy to remove - the handle actuator is inside the control panel. The handle assembly was easy to take apart and re-assemble with the new handle and spring. I then inserted the control panel back into the outside door and reattached all of the screws with a power drill. This was a repair that a GE-authorized service tech told me was going to be over $540 - he claimed the control panel and door handle/actuator was a single assembly. In the end this repair cost me $14 in parts and 15 minutes of time. I complained to GE Consumer Affairs and they rebated the tech house call back to me in 5 business days.

This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

Gasket it self was simple. Just pull out the old rubber gasket and "stuff" in the new one. Note the new gasket was 1-2" short, so I used a piece of the old gasket to fill in the missing length.

The "short seal" was a bit of a mystery on how to actually remove the old one. Taking off the door panel, and almost all the screws on the door did nothing to get access to the short seal. Finally, I simply pryed up the plastic door liner just enough to slide out the old seal. it has a "slot" that engages a plastic bar within the door. Putting in the new was a bit trickier, but after some three handed effort I was able to slide and then snap in the new seal.

So, in the end I really needed to remove NO screws to do the job.

After 10 washes, all seems good with NO leaks.

Bottomline, for a 4 year old dishwasher needing these parts is a bit silly. Older dishwashers I owned lasted 10-15 years with ZERO problems.

So much for GE buying all their appliances in China.......

Exactly as described by a previous reviewer. I pulled out the old rack, put in the new rack and just moved over the cutlery rack.

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.