GSD2350R20CS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Repair was easy. However, this did not solve the problem.

The instructions provided are very good if I had done before. My concern was getting the gasket to sit properly at the bottom where you cannot see. I removed the inside of the door (7 screws) and this made it easier to assure gasket sat properly in the track. may have cost an extra 15 minutes but worth it. If I do again I will take door apart again, however I think this is fixed and should not need attention again.

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

Squeeze the new link to the cable hook with pliers while locking the vise grip to the cable for easier handling. Then, using the vise grip on the cable, hook the other end of the link to the dishwasher door hook

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

I connected one end of hose to the drain using a hose clamp and screwdriver then connected the other end to the dishwasher using anouther hose clamp and a screwdriver..

Removed screws and replaced the part. It couldn't of been earlier. Only problem this kit didn't include a toe kick and we are having a hard time finding it.

No tools needed for this half-minute repair. Just bend the flexible plastic tab on the back of the end cap until it slips into the metal rail and the end cap snaps into place. Couldn't be easier or simpler!

placed the end cap into location and forced it into place. Fixed -and we are all much happier!!

I Just Open Door And Put Fill Cap In And Turn That It

The only trick was the endcaps, which were not intuitive. I followed the instructions in the following Youtube video , which direct the user to bend a tab at the rear of the endcap back away from the front using a quarter in order to allow the endcap to rotate out of position inwards into the interior of the dishwasher. The old racks then slid easily out of the dishwasher, the new ones equally easily slid in, and then the endcaps required the tab to be bent back to allow them to rotate back into position.

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.